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Paris As It Was and As It Is

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"The deception recurred to by phantasmagorists is further increased
by the mystery that conceals, from the eyes of the public, their
operations and optical instruments: but it is easy for the showman to
snatch from them this superiority, and to strengthen the illusion for
the children whom you choose to amuse with this sight. For that
purpose, he has only to change the arrangement of the sheet, by
requiring it to be suspended from the ceiling, between him and the
spectators, much in the same manner as the curtain of a playhouse,
which separates the stage from the public. The transparency of the
cloth shews through it the coloured rays, and, provided it be not of
too thick and too close a texture, the image presents itself as clear
on the one side as on the other.

"If to these easy means you could unite those employed by ROBERTSON,
such as the black hangings, which absorb the coloured rays, the
little musical preparations, and others, you might transform all the
_galantee-shows_ into as many _phantasmagorias_, in spite of the
priority of invention, which belongs, conscientiously, to Father
KIRCHER, a German Jesuit, who first found means to apply his
knowledge respecting light to the construction of the magic lantern.

"The coloured figures, exhibited by the phatasmagorists, have no
relation to these effects of light: they are effigies covered with
gold-beater's skin, or any other transparent substance, in which is
placed a dark lantern. The light of this lantern is extinguished or
concealed by pulling a string, or touching a spring, at the moment
when any one wishes to seize on the figure, which, by this
contrivance, seems to disappear.

"The proprietors of the grand exhibitions of _phantasmagoria_ join to
these simple means a combination of different effects, which they
partly derive from the phenomena, presented by the _camera obscura_.
Some faint idea of that part of physics, called optics, which NEWTON
illuminated, by his genius and experience, are sufficient for
conceiving the manner in which these appearances are produced, though
they require instruments and particular care to give them proper
effect."

Such is the elucidation given of the _phantasmagoria_ by an
intelligent observer, whose friend favoured me with this
communication.



LETTER XXXVII.

_Paris, December 21, 1801._

If Paris affords a thousand enjoyments to the man of fortune, it may
truly be said that, without money, Paris is the most melancholy abode
in the world. Privations are then the more painful, because desires
and even wants are rendered more poignant by the ostentatious display
of every object which might satisfy them. What more cruel for an
unfortunate fellow, with an empty purse, than to pass by the kitchen
of a _restaurateur_, when, pinched by hunger, he has not the means of
procuring himself a dinner? His olfactory nerves being still more
readily affected when his stomach is empty, far from affording him a
pleasing sensation, then serve only to sharpen the torment which he
suffers. It is worse than the punishment of Tantalus, who, dying with
thirst, could not drink, though up to his chin in water.

Really, my dear friend, I would advise every rich epicure to fix his
residence in this city. Without being plagued by the details of
housekeeping, or even at the trouble of looking at a bill of fare, he
might feast his eye, and his appetite too, on the inviting plumpness
of a turkey, stuffed with truffles. A boar's head set before him,
with a Seville orange between its tusks, might make him fancy that he
was discussing the greatest interests of mankind at the table of an
Austrian Prime Minister, or British Secretary of State; while _pâtés_
of _Chartres_ or of _Périgord_ hold out to his discriminating palate
all the refinements of French seasoning. These, and an endless
variety of other dainties, no less tempting, might he contemplate
here, in walking past a _magazin de comestibles_ or
provision-warehouse.

Among the changes introduced here, within these few years, I had
heard much of the improvements in the culinary art, or rather in the
manner of serving up its productions; but, on my first arrival in
Paris, I was so constantly engaged in a succession of dinner-parties,
that some time elapsed before I could avail myself of an opportunity
of dining at the house of any of the fashionable

RESTAURATEURS.

This is a title of no very ancient date in Paris. _Traiteurs_ have
long existed here: independently of furnishing repasts at home, these
_traiteurs_, like Birch in Cornhill, or any other famous London cook,
sent out dinners and suppers. But, in 1765, one BOULANGER conceived
the idea of _restoring_ the exhausted animal functions of the
debilitated Parisians by rich soups of various denominations. Not
being a _traiteur_, it appears that he was not authorized to serve
ragouts; he therefore, in addition to his _restorative_ soups, set
before his customers new-laid eggs and boiled fowl with strong gravy
sauce: those articles were served up without a cloth, on little
marble tables. Over his door he placed the following inscription,
borrowed from Scripture: "_Venite ad me omnes qui stomacho laboratis,
et ego restaurabo vos._"

Such was the origin of the word and profession of _restaurateur_.

Other cooks, in imitation of BOULANGER, set up as _restorers_, on a
similar plan, in all the places of public entertainment where such
establishments were admissible. Novelty, fashion, and, above all,
dearness, brought them into vogue. Many a person who would have been
ashamed to be seen going into a _traiteur's_, made no hesitation of
entering a _restaurateur's_, where he paid nearly double the price
for a dinner of the same description. However, as, in all trades, it
is the great number of customers that enrich the trader, rather than
the select few, the _restaurateurs_, in order to make their business
answer, were soon under the necessity of constituting themselves
_traiteurs_; so that, in lieu of one title, they now possess two; and
this is the grand result of the primitive establishment.

At the head of the most noted _restaurateurs_ in Paris, previously to
the revolution, was LA BARRIÈRE in the _ci-devant Palais Royal_; but,
though his larder was always provided with choice food, his cellar
furnished with good wines, his bill of fare long, and the number of
his customers considerable, yet his profits, he said, were not
sufficiently great to allow him to cover his tables with linen. This
omission was supplied by green wax cloth; a piece of economy which,
he declared, produced him a saving of near 10,000 livres (_circa_
400£ sterling) per annum in the single article of washing. Hence you
may form an idea of the extent of such an undertaking. I have often
dined at LA BARRIÈRE'S was always well served, at a moderate charge,
and with remarkable expedition. Much about that time, BEAUVILLIERS,
who had opened, within the same precincts, a similar establishment,
but on a more refined plan, proved a most formidable rival to LA
BARRIÈRE, and at length eclipsed him.

After a lapse of almost eleven years, I again find this identical
BEAUVILLIERS still in the full enjoyment of the greatest celebrity.
ROBERT and NAUDET in the _Palais du Tribunat_, and VÉRY on the
_Terrace des Feuillant_ dispute with him the palm in the art of
Apicius. All these, it is true, furnish excellent repasts, and their
wines are not inferior to their cooking: but, after more than one
impartial trial, I think I am justified in giving the preference to
BEAUVILLIERS. Let us then take a view of his arrangements: this, with
a few variations in price or quality, will serve as a general picture
of the _ars coquinaria_ in Paris.

On the first floor of a large hotel, formerly occupied, perhaps, by a
farmer-general, you enter a suite of apartments, decorated with
arabesques, and mirrors of large dimensions, in a style no less
elegant than splendid, where tables are completely arranged for large
or small parties. In winter, these rooms are warmed by ornamental
stoves, and lighted by _quinquets_, a species of Argand's lamps. They
are capable of accommodating from two hundred and fifty to three
hundred persons, and, at this time of the year, the average number
that dine here daily is about two hundred; in summer, it is
considerably decreased by the attractions of the country, and the
parties of pleasure made, in consequence, to the environs of the
capital.

On the left hand, as you pass into the first room, rises a sort of
throne, not unlike the _estrado_ in the grand audience-chamber of a
Spanish viceroy. This throne is encircled by a barrier to keep
intruders at a respectful distance. Here sits a lady, who, from her
majestic gravity and dignified bulk, you might very naturally suppose
to be an empress, revolving in her comprehensive mind the affairs of
her vast dominions. This respectable personage is Madame
BEAUVILLIERS, whose most interesting concern is to collect from the
gentlemen in waiting the cash which they receive at the different
tables. In this important branch, she has the assistance of a lady,
somewhat younger than herself, who, seated by her side, in stately
silence, has every appearance of a maid of honour. A person in
waiting near the throne, from his vacant look and obsequious
carriage, might, at first sight, be taken for a chamberlain; whereas
his real office, by no means an unimportant one, is to distribute
into deserts the fruit and other _et ceteras_, piled up within his
reach in tempting profusion.

We will take our seats in this corner, whence, without laying down
our knife and fork, we can enjoy a full view of the company as they
enter. We are rather early: by the clock, I perceive that it is no
more than five: at six, however, there will scarcely be a vacant seat
at any of the tables. "_Garçon, la carte_!"--"_La voilà devant vous,
Monsieur._"

Good heaven! the bill of fare is a printed sheet of double _folio_,
of the size of an English newspaper. It will require half an hour at
least to con over this important catalogue. Let us see; Soups,
thirteen sorts.--_Hors-d'oeuvres_, twenty-two species.--Beef, dressed
in eleven different ways.--Pastry, containing fish, flesh and fowl,
in eleven shapes. Poultry and game, under thirty-two various forms.
--Veal, amplified into twenty-two distinct articles.--Mutton, confined
to seventeen only.--Fish, twenty-three varieties.--Roast meat, game,
and poultry, of fifteen kinds.--Entremets, or side-dishes, to the
number of forty-one articles.--Desert, thirty-nine.--Wines, including
those of the liqueur kind, of fifty-two denominations, besides ale
and porter.--Liqueurs, twelve species, together with coffee and ices.

Fudge! fudge! you cry--Pardon me, my good friend, 'tis no fudge. Take
the tremendous bill of fare into your own hand. _Vide et lege_. As we
are in no particular hurry, travel article by article through the
whole enumeration. This will afford you the most complete notion of
the expense of dining at a fashionable _restaurateur's_ in Paris.

BEAUVILLIERS, RESTAURATEUR

_Anciennement à la grande Tavernede la République, Palais-Egalité,
No. 142, Présentement Rue de la LOI, No. 1243._

PRIX DES METS POUR UNE PERSONNE.--LES ARTICLES DONT
LES PRIX NE SONT POINT FIXES, MANQUENT.


POTAGES.

fr. s.
Potage aux laitues et petits pois 0 15
Potage aux croûtons à la purée 0 15
Potage aux choux 0 15
Potage au consommé 0 12
Potage au pain 0 12
Potage de santé 0 12
Potage au vermicel 0 12
Potage au ris 0 12
Potage à la julienne 0 12
Potage printanier 0 15
Potage à la purée 0 15
Potage au lait d'amandes 0 15
Potage en tortue 1 10

HORS-D'OEUVRES.

Tranche de melon 1 0
Artichaud à la poivrade 0 15
Raves et Radis 0 6
Salade de concombres 1 10
Thon mariné 1 10
Anchois à l'huile 1 5
Olives 0 15
Pied de cochon à la Sainte-Mènéhould 0 12
Cornichons 0 8
Petit salé aux choux 1 5
Saucisses aux choux 0 18
1 Petit Pain de Beurre 0 4
2 OEufs frais 0 12
1 Citron 0 8
Rissole à la Choisy 1 0
Croquette de volaille 1 4
3 Rognons à la brochette 1 0
Tête de veau en tortue 2 5
Tête de veau au naturel 1 0
1 Côtelette de porc frais, sauce robert 1 0
Chou-Croûte garni 1 10
Jambon de Mayence aux épinards 1 5

ENTRÉES DE BOEUF.

fr. s.
Boeuf au naturel ou à la sauce 0 15
Boeuf aux choux ou aux légumes 0 18
Carnebif 1 10
Rosbif 1 5
Filet de Boeuf sauté dans sa glace 1 5
Bifteck 1 5
Entre-côte, sauce aux cornichons 1 5
Palais de Boeuf au gratin 1 4
Palais de Boeuf à la poulette ou à l'Italienne 1 0
Langue de Boeuf glacée aux épinards 1 0
Jarrets de veau 0 15

ENTRÉES DE PATISSERIE.

Pâté chaud de légumes 1 5
2 petits Pâtés à la Béchamel 1 4
2 petits Pâtés au jus 0 16
1 Pâté chaud d'anguille 1 10
1 Pâté chaud de crêtes et de rognons de coqs 2 0
Tourte de godiveau 1 0
Tourte aux confitures 1 5
Vol-au-Vent de filets de volailles 2 0
Vol-au-Vent de Saumon frais 1 10
Vol-au-Vent de morue à la Béchamel 1 5
Vol-au-Vent de cervelle de veau à l'Allemande 1 5

ENTRÉES DE VOLAILLES.
(_Toutes les entrées aux Truffes sont de 15 de plus_).

fr. s.
Caille aux petits pois 2 10
Pigeon à la crapaudine 2 10
Chapon au riz, le quart 2 15
Chapon au gros sel, le quart 2 10
Demi-poulet aux Truffes ou aux Huitres 4 0
Fricassée de poulets garnie, la moitié 3 10
Fricassée de poulets, la moitié 3 0
Salade de volaille 3 0
Friteau de poulet, la moitié 3 0
Demi-poulet à la ravigotte ou à la tartare 3 0
Marinade de poulet, la moitié 3 0
Le quart d'un poulet à l'estragon ou à la crème ou
aux laitues 1 10
Blanquette de poularde 2 10
1 cuisse de poulet aux petits pois 2 0
1 cuisse de volaille au jambon 2 0
2 côtelettes de poulet 3 0
1 cuisse ou aile de poulet en papillote 1 10
1 cuisse de poulet à la Provençale 1 10
Ragoût mêlé de crêtes et de rognons de coqs 3 0
Capilotade de volaille 3 0
Filet de poularde au suprême 3 0
Mayonaise de volaille 3 0
Cuisses de Dindon grillées, sauce robert 3 0
Le quart d'un Canard aux petits pois ou aux navets 1 10
Foie gras en caisses ou en matelote
Perdrix aux choux, la moitié
Salmi de perdreau au vin de Champagne
Pigeons en compote ou aux petits pois 2 10
Béchamel de blanc de volaille 2 10
2 cuisses de poulet en hochepot 1 10
Ailerons de dinde aux navets 1 10
Blanc de volaille aux concombres 3 0

ENTRÉES DE VEAU.

fr. s.
Riz de veau piqué, à l'oseille ou à la chicorée 2 0
Riz de veau à la poulette 2 0
Fricandeau aux petits pois 1 5
Fricandeau à la chicorée 1 4
Fricandeau à la ravigotte 1 4
Fricandeau à l'oseille 1 4
Fricandeau à l'Espagnole 1 4
Côtelette de veau au jambon 1 4
Côtelette de veau aux petits pois 1 10
Côtelette de veau en papillotte 1 5
Côtelette de veau panée, sauce piquante 1 0
Côtelette de veau, sauce tomate 1 5
Blanquette de veau 1 0
Oreille de veau à la ravigotte 1 4
Oreille de veau farcie, frite 1 4
Oreille de veau frite ou en marinade 1 4
Cervelle de veau en matelote 1 4
Cervelle de veau à la purée 1 4
Tendons de veau panés, grillés, sauce piquante 1 4
Tendons de veau à la poulette 1 4
Tendons de veauen macédoine 1 5
Tendons de veau aux petits pois 1 5

ENTRÉES DE MOUTON.

Gigot de mouton braisé, aux légumes 1 0
Tendons de mouton grillés 0 18
Tendons de mouton aux petits pois 1 5
Hachi de mouton à la Portugaise 1 0
2 Côtelettes de mouton à la minute 1 5
2 Côtelettes de mouton aux racines 1 5
2 Côtelettes de mouton au naturel 0 18
2 Côtelettes de pré 1 0
Epigramme d'agneau
2 Côtelettes d'agneau au naturel
Tendons d'agneau aux pointes d'asperges
Tendons d'agneau aux petits pois
Blanquette d'agneau
Filet de chevreuil 1 5
Côtelette de chevreuil
Queue de mouton à la purée 1 5
Queue de mouton à l'oseille ou à la chicorée 1 5

ENTRÉES DE POISSONS.

fr. s.
Merlan frit
Maquereau à la maître d'hôtel
Saumon frais, sauce aux câpres 2 10
Raie, sauce aux câpres ou au beurre noir 1 10
Turbot, sauce aux câpres 2 10
Cabillaud
Morue fraîche au beurre fondu
Morue d'Hol. à la maître-d'hôtel ou à la Provençale 1 10
Sole frite
Sole sur le plat 5 0
Eperlans frits
Barbue
Turbotin
Matelote de carpe et d'anguille 2 0
Tronçon d'anguille à la tartare 1 10
Carpe frite, la moitié 2 0
Perche du Rhin à la Vallesfiche
Goujons frits 1 5
Truite au bleu
Laitance de carpe
Moules à la poulette 1 5
Homard 3 0
Esturgeon 2 10

RÔTS.

fr. s.
Bécasse
3 Mauviettes


Poularde fine 9fr. la moitié 4 10
Poulet Normand, 7fr. la moitié 3 10
Poulet gras, 6fr. la moitié 3 0
1 Pigeon de volière 2 10
Perdreau rouge
Perdreau gris 3 10
Caneton de Rouen
Caille 2 0
Agneau
Veau 1 0
Mouton
Levreau
Grive


Obergine 1 10

ENTREMETS.

Gelée de citron 1 10
Concombres à la Béchamel 1 10
Laitues a jus 1 10
Petits pois à la Française ou à l'Anglaise 1 10
Haricots verts à la poulette ou à l'Anglaise 1 10
Haricots blancs à la maître-d'hôtel 0 18
Fèves de marais 1 10
Artichaud à la sauce 1 10
Artichaud à la barigoul 1 10
Artichaud frit 1 5
Truffes au vin de Champagne
Truffes à l'Italienne
Croûte aux truffes
Navets
Carottes 0 18
Epinards au jus 0 18
Chicorée au jus 1 5
Céleri au jus
Choux-fleurs à la sauce ou au parmesan 1 10
Macédoine de légumes 1 5
Pommes de terre à la maître-d'hôtel 0 18
Champignons à la Bordelaise 1 4
Croûtes aux champignons 1 10
OEufs brouillés au jus 0 15
OEufs au beurre noir 1 0
Omelette aux fines herbes 0 15
Omelette aux rognons ou au jambon 1 0
Omelette au sucre ou aux confitures 1 5
Omelette soufflée 1 10
Beignets de pommes 1 10
Charlotte de pommes 1 10
Charlotte aux confitures 2 0
Riz soufflé 1 10
Soufflé aux pommes de terre 1 10
Le petit pôt de crème 0 10
Macaroni d'Italie au parmesan 1 5
Fondu 1 4
Plumpuding 1 10
Eorevisses 2 0
Salade 1 0

DESSERT.

fr. s.
Cerneaux 0 15
Raisins 1 5


Fraises
Cerises
Groseilles
Framboises
Abricot 0 8
Pêche 0 12
Prunes 0 3
Figue 0 5
Amandes 0 15
Noisettes 0 12
Pommes à la Portugaise
Poires 0 8
Pomme
Compote de verjus épépine
Compote d'épine-vinette
Compote de poires 1 4
Compote de pommes
Compote de cerises 1 4
Nix Vert 0 10
Meringue 0 8
Compote de groseilles 1 4
Compote d'abricot 1 4
Compote de pêche 1 4
Confitures 1 4
Cerises liquides 1 4
Marmelade d'abricots 1 10
Gelée de groseilles 1 4
Biscuit à la crème 1 8
Fromage à la crème 1 10
Fromage de Roquefort 0 10
Fromage de Viry 0 15
Fromage de Gruyère 0 8
Fromage de Neufehâtel 0 5
Fromage de Clochestre ou Chester 0 10
Cerises à l'eau-de-vie 0 12
Prunes à l'eau-de-vie 0 12
Abricots à l'eau-de-vie
Pêches à l'eau-de-vie

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