A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P R S T U V W X Z

Manual of Gardening (Second Edition)

L >> L. H. Bailey >> Manual of Gardening (Second Edition)




Turnips should be grown in drills, like beets, for the early crop. The
young plants will stand light frosts. Choose a rainy day for planting,
if practicable. Cover the seed very lightly. Thin the young plants to 5
to 7 inches in the row. Sow every two weeks if a constant supply is
desired, as turnips rapidly become hard and woody in warm summer
weather. For the fall and winter crop in the North,

"On the fourteenth day of July,
Sow your turnips, wet or dry."

In many parts of the northern and middle states tradition fixes the 25th
of July as the proper time for sowing flat turnips for winter use. In
the middle states, turnips are sometimes sown as late as the end of
August. Prepare a piece of very mellow ground, and sow the seed thinly
and evenly broadcast. In spite of the old rhyme, a gentle shower will
then be acceptable. These turnips are pulled after frost, the tops
removed, and the roots stored in cellars or pits.

For the early crop, Purple-top Strap-leaf, Early White Flat Dutch, and
Early Purple-top Milan are the favorite varieties. Yellow-fleshed sorts
like Golden Ball are very fine for early table use, when well grown, but
most eaters prefer white turnips in spring, although they occasionally
patronize the yellow varieties in the fall. Yellow Globe is the favorite
yellow fall turnip, though some persons grow yellow rutabagas and call
them turnips. For late crop of white turnips, the same varieties chosen
for spring sowing are also desirable.

Rutabagas are distinguished from turnips by their smooth, bluish
foliage, long root, and yellow flesh. They are richer than turnips; they
require the same treatment, except that the season of growth is longer.
Fall-sown or summer-sown bagas should have a month the start of
flat turnips.

Except the maggot (see cabbage maggot,), there are no serious insects or
diseases peculiar to turnips and bagas.

WATERMELON.--The watermelon is shipped everywhere in such enormous
quantities, and it covers so much space in the garden, that
home-gardeners in the North seldom grow it. When one has room, it should
be added to the kitchen-garden.

The culture is essentially that for muskmelons (which see), except that
most varieties require a warmer place and longer period of growth. Give
the hills a distance of 6 to 10 feet apart. Choose a warm, "quick" soil
and sunny exposure. It is essential, in the North, that the plants grow
rapidly and come into bloom early. One ounce of seed will plant
thirty hills.

There are several white or yellow-fleshed varieties, but aside from
their oddity of appearance they have little value. A good watermelon has
a solid, bright red flesh, preferably with black seeds, and a strong
protecting rind. Kolb Gem, Jones, Boss, Cuban Queen, and Dixie are among
the best varieties. There are early varieties that will ripen in the
Northern season, and make a much better melon than those secured on
the market.

The so-called "citron," with hard white flesh, used in making preserves,
is a form of watermelon.



CHAPTER XI

SEASONAL REMINDERS

The author assumes that a person who is intelligent enough to make a
garden, does not need an arbitrary calendar of operations. Too exact
advice is misleading and unpractical. Most of the older gardening books
were arranged wholly on the calendar method--giving specific directions
for each month in the year. We have now accumulated sufficient fact and
experience, however, to enable us to state principles; and these
principles can be applied anywhere,--when supplemented by good
judgment,--whereas mere rules are arbitrary and generally useless for
any other condition than that for which they were specifically made. The
regions of gardening experience have expanded enormously within the past
fifty and seventy-five years. Seasons and conditions vary so much in
different years and different places that no hard and fast advice can be
given for the performing of gardening operations, yet brief hints for
the proper work of the various months may be useful as suggestions and
reminders.

The Monthly Reminders are compiled from files of the "American Garden"
of some years back, when the author had editorial charge of that
magazine. The advice for the North (pages 504 to 516) was written by T.
Greiner, La Salle, N.Y. well known as a gardener and author. That for
the South (pages 516 to 526) was made by H.W. Smith, Baton Rouge, La.,
for the first nine months, and it was extended for "Garden-Making" to
the months of October, November, and December by F.H. Burnette,
Horticulturist of the Louisiana Experiment Station.

KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTING TABLE

A GUIDE TO THE PROPER TIMES FOR SOWING OF VARIOUS SEEDS IN ORDER TO
OBTAIN CONTINUOUS SUCCESSION OF CROPS

EXPLANATION OF SIGNS USED IN THE TABLE.

(0)To be sown in open ground without transplanting. Plants have to be
thinned out, given proper distance.

(1) Sow in seed bed in the garden, and transplant thence to permanent
place.

(2) Make two sowings in open ground during the month.

(3) Make three sowings in open ground during the month.

(4) Start in greenhouse or hot-bed, and plant out so soon as the ground
is in good shape, and weather permits.

(5) Sow in open ground as soon as it can be worked.

(6) To be grown only in hot-bed or greenhouse.

(7) Sow in cold frame, keep plants there over winter with a little
protection; plant out in spring as soon as the ground can be worked.

(8) To be sown in open ground, and protected with litter over winter.

(9) Plant in frame. When cold weather sets in, cover with sash and straw
mats. Plants will be ready for use in December and January.

(10) Plant in cellar, barn or under benches in greenhouse.

(11) Plant outdoors on prepared beds.

(12) Sow every week in greenhouse or frame, to have a good succession.

VEGETABLES IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Artichoke,
American - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - -
French - (4) - (1) (1) - - - - - - -
Beans, Bush (6) (6) (6) (0) (2) (2) (2) (0) - - - -
Beans,
Pole & Lima - - - - (0) (0) - - - - - -
Beets - - (4) (4) (0) (0) (0) (0) - - - -
Borecole, Kale - - - - (1) (1) (1) - - - - -
Broccoli - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - (7) (7) - -
Brussels
Sprouts - - - - (1) (1) - - - - - -
Cabbage,
all sorts - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - (7) (7) - -
Cardoon - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - -
Carrot (6) (6) (5) (0) (0) (0) (0) - - - - -
Cauliflower (6) (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - -
Celeriac - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - -
Celery - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - -
Chicory - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Collards - - - - - - (0) (0) (0) - - -
Corn, field - - - (0) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Corn, Sweet - - - (2) (2) (2) (2) (0) - - - -
Corn, Pop - - - (0) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Corn, Salad - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - (8) - - -
Cress (12) (12) (12) (12) (0) (0) - - (12) (12) (12) (12)
Cucumber (6) (6) (6) (4) (0) (0) - (6) (6) - - -
Egg Plants - (6) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - -
Endive - - - (1) (1) (1) (1) - - - - -
Kohlrabi (6) (6) (4) (1) (1) (1) (1) - - - - -
Leek - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - -
Lettuce (6) (4) (4) (1) (2) (2) (2) (0) (9) (9) (7) -
Mangel - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Melon (6) (6) (6) (4) (0) (0) (9) (6) - - - -
Mushroom (10) (10) (11) - - - - (11) (10) (10) (10) (10)
Mustard (12) (12) (12) (0) (0) (0) - (0) (0) (12) (12) (12)
Nasturtium - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - -
Okra - - (4) (4) (2) (2) (2) - - - - -
Onion - (4) (4) (1) (1) - - - - - - -
Parsnips - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Parsley (6) (6) (4) (0) (0) (0) (0) - - - - -
Peas - - (5) (2) (2) (2) (2) (0) - (0) - -
Pepper - (4) (4) (4) (1) - - - - - - -
Potatoes - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - -
Pumpkin - - - (4) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Radish (12) (12) (12) (3) (3) (3) - - (9) (9) - -
Rutabaga - - - - - - - (0) (0) - - -
Salsify - - (5) (0) - - - (0) (0) - - -
Seakale - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Spinach - - (5) (0) (0) - - - (2) (8) - -
Squash - - (4) (4) (0) (0) - - - - - -
Tomato (6) (6) (4) (1) (1) (1) - (6) (6) (6) - -
Turnips - - - - - - - (0) (0) - - -

N.B.--For last planting of Beans, Sweet Corn, Kohlrabi, Peas and
Radishes, or even Tomatoes, take the earliest varieties, just the same
as are used for first planting.

--The late sowings of Salsify are intended to remain undisturbed over
winter. Roots from these sowings will, the next year, attain a size
double that usually seen.

[Illustration: Fig. 318. Bird's-eye view of the seasons in which the
various garden products may be in their prime.]

SUGGESTIONS AND REMINDERS.--I. FOR THE NORTH

JANUARY

_Cabbage plants_ in frames need free airing whenever the temperature is
above the freezing point, or so long as the soil of the bed is not
frozen. Snow, in that case, should be removed soon after its fall. As
long as the soil is frozen the snow can safely be left on for a number
of days. Cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce seed should be sown at
intervals to secure plants for extra-early sales or setting. A month
later they will be ready to transfer to boxes, which should go to the
coldframe and be given protection by mats or shutters.

_Coldframes_ must be well ventilated on warm, sunny days; leave the
sashes off as long as is possible without injury to the plants. Keep the
soil in a friable condition, and look carefully to any possible places
where water can stand and freeze. If the frames seem too cold, bank up
around them with coarse manure.

_Hotbeds._--Look up and repair the sashes. Save the horse-manure from
day to day, rejecting dry litter, and piling up the droppings and
urine-soaked bedding in thin layers to prevent violent heating.

_Lettuce_ in frames treat as advised for cabbage plants.

_Pruning_ should now be considered. Perhaps it is best to prune
fruit-trees in March or April, but grapes and currants and gooseberries
may be pruned now. January and February are good months in which to
prune peach trees. Thin out the peach trees well, taking care to remove
all the dead wood. If you have much pruning to do in apple, pear, or
plum orchards, you will save time by utilizing the warm days now. Study
well the different methods of pruning. Never let an itinerant pruner
touch your trees until you are satisfied that he understands
his business.

_Tools_ should now be inspected and repaired, and any new ones that are
needed made or ordered.

FEBRUARY

_Cabbage._--Sow seed of Jersey Wakefield in flats filled with light
loamy soil, the last week of this month. Sow thinly, cover lightly, and
place the boxes in a gentle hotbed or any warm, sunny situation. When
the plants are strong, transplant them into flats 1-1/2 in. apart each
way. As growth begins, gradually expose them to the open air on all
favorable occasions. Late in March remove them to a coldframe, and
properly harden them off before setting them in the open ground.

_Celery._--We urgently advise every one who has a garden, large or
small, to make a trial of the new celery-culture. You need, first, good
plants. Get some seed of White Plume or Golden Self-blanching, and sow
it thickly in flats filled with fine loam. Cover by sifting a thin layer
of sand or fine soil over it, and firm well. Keep in a moderately warm
place, watering as needed, until plants appear. If you have a number of
flats, they may be placed on top of one another. At the first sign of
plant-growth, bring the flats gradually to the light. When the plants
are 1-1/2 or 2 in. high, transplant them into other flats, setting them
in rows 2-1/2 in. apart, the plants half an inch apart in the rows. Then
set the flats in a coldframe until the plants are large enough to plant
out in the open ground.

_Hotbeds_ for raising early plants should be made this month. Always
break the manure up fine and tread it down well. Be sure to put enough
in the center of beds, so that there will be no sagging. Fresh manure of
hard-worked and well-fed horses, free from dry litter, is best. An
addition of leaves used for bedding will serve to produce a more
moderate but more lasting heat. Sheep-manure may also be added to the
horse-manure, should there be a scant supply of the latter on hand.

_Onions._--We urgently advise giving the new onion-culture a trial. For
seed, buy a packet or an ounce of Prizetaker, Spanish King, White
Victoria, or some other large kind of globe onion. Sow the seed in
flats, in a hotbed, or in a greenhouse late in the month, and transplant
the onions to the open ground as soon as the latter is in working
condition. Set the plants in rows 1 ft. apart and about 3 in. apart
in the row.

_Plums._--Make a thorough inspection of all plum and cherry trees, wild
and cultivated, for plum-knot. Cut and burn all the knots found. Remove
all "mummy" plums, for they spread the fruit-rot.

_Rhubarb._--Give the plants in the garden a heavy dressing of fine old
compost. If you wish a few early stalks, place kegs or boxes over some
of the plants, and heap over them some heating horse-manure.

MARCH

_Beets._--A few seeds may be sown in the hotbed.

_Cabbage, cauliflower, and celery_ seeds may be sown for the early crop.

_Egg-plants._--Seeds should be sown. Take care that the young plants are
never stunted.

_Grafting_ may be done in favorable weather. Cherries and plums must be
grafted early. Use liquid grafting-wax in cold weather.

_Hotbeds_ may be made at any time, but do not grow impatient about the
work, for there will be cold weather yet. Clean, fresh manure is
necessary, and a layer 2 ft. thick should be tramped hard. When once
started and the seeds sown, do not let the beds get too hot. Give them
air on fine days and give the seedlings plenty of water. Use two
thermometers--one to test the atmosphere and the other the heat of
the soil.

_Lettuce_ should be sown in the hotbed for an early crop.

_Onion_ seed for the new onion-culture may be sown at the close of the
month.

_Peas._--Sow now, if the ground can be worked.

_Peppers_ may be sown late in the month.

_Potatoes_ kept for seed must not be allowed to sprout. Keep them in a
temperature near freezing point. Rub off the sprouts from potatoes kept
for eating, and pick out all decayed specimens.

_Spinach._--Sow some seeds for an early crop.

_Tomato_ seeds may be sown in the hotbeds.

APRIL

_Artichokes._--Sow the seeds for next year's crop. A deep, rich, sandy
loam is best. Fork in a dressing of well-rotted manure around the
old plants.

_Asparagus._--Spade in some good manure in the bed, and give the soil a
thorough working before the crowns start. Sow seeds in the open ground
for young plants for a new bed.

_Beans._--Limas may be started on sods in a hotbed or a coldframe
towards the last of the month.

_Beets._--The ground should be prepared and the seed sown for beets for
cattle as soon as the weather will permit. Put them in before planting
corn. They will stand considerable cold weather, and should be planted
early to get a start of the weeds.

_Blackberries_ should be pruned, the brush drawn off, piled, and burned.
If it is necessary, to stake them, try a wire trellis, the same as for
grapes, putting on one wire 2-1/2 ft. high. The young plants should be
dug before the buds start.

_Cabbage_ seed may be sown in the open ground, in coldframes, or in pans
or boxes in the house. Early varieties should be started at once.
Cabbages like a rich and heavy loam, with good drainage. Give them all
the manure you can get.

_Cauliflower_ seeds may be sown toward the last of the month. They
should never have a check from the time the seed is sown until
harvested.

_Carrot._--Sow the seed of early sorts, like Early Forcing, as soon as
the ground can be worked.

_Celery._--Plan to grow celery by the new method. Plenty of manure and
moisture are required to do this. Sow the seed in light, rich soil in
the house, hotbed, coldframe, or open ground. Transplant the plants once
before setting them in the field. Page 505.

_Cress._--Sow early and every two or three weeks. Watercress should be
sown in damp soil or in streams. The outer edges of a hotbed may also be
utilized. Cress is often a profitable crop when rightly handled.

_Cucumber_ seeds may be sown on sods in the hotbed.

_Egg-plant._--Sow in the hotbed, and transplant when 2 in. high to other
beds or pots. They must have good care, for a check in their growth
means all the difference between profit and loss.

_Lettuce._--Sow the seeds in the hotbed, and in the open ground as soon
as it can be worked. Plants sown a month ago should be transplanted.

_Leek._--Sow the seeds in the open ground in drills 6 in. apart and 1
in. deep, and when large enough, thin to 1 in. in the row.

_Muskmelon._--Plant seeds in sods in the hotbed.

_Parsnip._--Dig the roots before they grow and become soft and pithy.
Seeds may be sown as soon as the ground is dry enough to work.

_Parsley._--Soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours, and sow in the
open ground.

_Peas._--Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked. They will
stand considerable cold and transplanting also. Time may be gained by
sowing some seeds in moist sand in a box in the cellar and transplanting
when well sprouted. Plant deep in light, dry soil; cover an inch at
first, and draw in the earth as the vines grow.

_Potatoes._--Plant early on rich soil free from blight and scab. For a
very early crop, the potatoes may be sprouted before planting.

_Peppers._--Sow the seeds in the hotbed or in the boxes in the house.

_Radish_ seeds may be sown in the open ground or in the hotbed and the
crop harvested from there. The small, round varieties are best for
this purpose.

_Strawberries._--Give a good, thorough cultivation between the rows and
then remove the mulch from the plants, placing it in the rows, where it
will help to keep the weeds down.

_Salsify._--Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked. Give the
same care and cultivation as for carrots or parsnips.

_Spinach_ seeds must be sown early, and then every two weeks for a
succession. Thin out and use the plants before they send up
flower-stalks.

_Squashes._--Hubbards and summer squashes may be started on sods in the
hotbed.

_Tomato._--Sow in the hotbed or in shallow boxes in the house. Try some
of the yellow varieties; they are the finest flavored of any.

MAY

_Beans._--The bush sorts may be planted in the open ground, and limas in
pots or sods in a coldframe or spent hotbed. Limas require a long season
to mature, and should be started early.

_Beets._--Sow for a succession. Transplant those started under glass.

_Cabbages_ always do best on a freshly turned sod, and should be set
before the land has had time to dry after plowing. The secret of success
in getting a large yield of cabbage is to start with rich land and put
on all the manure obtainable. Clean out the hog yard for this purpose.

_Cucumbers._--Sow in the open ground toward the last of the month. A few
may be started as advised for lima beans.

_Lettuce._--Sow for a succession, and thin to 4 in. in the rows.
_Melons._--Plant in the open ground toward the end of the month. It is
useless to plant melons and other cucurbitaceous plants until settled
weather has arrived.

_Onions._--Finish planting and transplanting, and keep all weeds down,
both in the seed-bed and the open field.

Peas.--Sow for a succession.

_Squashes._--Plant as advised for melons and cucumbers. They require a
rich, well-manured soil.

_Strawberries._--Remove the blossoms from newly set plants. Mulch with
salt hay or marsh hay or clean straw or leaves those that are to bear.
Mulching conserves moisture, keeps the berries clean, and prevents weeds
from growing.

_Sweet corn._--Plant early and late varieties, and by making two or
three plantings of each, at intervals, a succession may be kept up all
summer and fall. Sweet corn is delicious, and one can hardly have too
much of it.

_Tomatoes._--Set some early plants by the middle of the month or earner,
if the ground is warm, and the season early and fair. They may be
protected from the cold by covering with hay, straw, cloth, or paper, or
even with earth. The main crop should not be set until the 20th or 25th,
or until all danger of frost is over. However, tomatoes will stand more
chilly weather than is ordinarily supposed.

JUNE

_Asparagus._--Cease cutting and allow the shoots to grow. Keep the weeds
down and the soil well stirred. An application of a quick commercial
fertilizer or of liquid manure will be beneficial.

_Beans._--Sow the wax sorts for succession. As soon as a crop is off,
pull out the vines and plant the ground to late cabbage, turnips, or
sweet corn.

_Beets._--Transplant in rows 1 to 3 ft. apart and 6 in. in the row. Cut
off most of the top, water thoroughly, and they will soon start.

_Cabbage and cauliflower._--Set plants for the late crop. Rich, newly
turned sod and a heavy dressing of well-rotted manure go a long way
toward assuring a good crop.

_Celery._--Set the main crop, and try the new method of setting the
plants 7 in. apart each way, if you have rich land and can irrigate, but
not unless these conditions are present. Page 505.

_Cucumbers_ may yet be planted, if done early in the month.

_Currants._--Spray with Paris green for the currant worm until the fruit
sets. Hellebore is good, but it is difficult to get it of good strength;
use it for all late spraying.

_Lettuce._--Sow for succession in a moist, cool, and partially shaded
spot. The seed does not germinate well in hot weather.

_Lima beans_ should be hoed frequently, and started on the poles if they
are contrary.

_Melons._--Cultivate often and watch for the bugs. A screen of closely
woven wire or mosquito netting may be used to cover the vines, or
tobacco dust sifted on thickly.

_Onions._--Keep free from weeds and stir the ground frequently and
especially after every rain.

_Squashes._--Keep the ground well cultivated and look out for bugs. (See
_Melons._) Layer the vines and cover the joints with fresh soil, to
prevent death of the vines from the attacks of the borer.

_Strawberries._--Plow up the old bed that has borne two crops, as it
will usually not pay to keep it. Set the ground to late cabbage or some
other crop. The young bed that has borne the first crop should have a
thorough cultivation and the plow run close to the rows to narrow them
to the required width. Pull up or hoe out all weeds and keep the ground
clean the rest of the season. This applies with equal force to the newly
set bed. A bed can be set late next month from young runners. Pinch off
the end after the first joint, and allow it to root on a sod or in a
small pot set level with the surface.

_Tomatoes._--For an early crop train to a trellis, pinch off all side
shoots, and allow all the strength to go to the main stalk. They may
also be trained to poles, the same as lima beans, and can be set closer
if grown in this way. Spray with the bordeaux mixture for the blight,
keep the foliage thinned and the vines off the ground.

_Turnips._--Sow for an early fall crop.

JULY

_Beans._--Sow the wax sorts for a succession.

_Beets._--Sow Early Egyptian or Eclipse for young beets next fall.

_Blackberries._--Head back the young canes to 3 ft., and the laterals
also when they get longer. They may be pinched with the thumbnail and
finger in a small patch, but this soon makes the fingers sore, and when
there are many bushes to go over, it is better to use a pair of shears
or a sharp sickle.

_Cabbage._--Set plants for the late crop.

_Corn._--Plant sweet corn for succession and late use.

_Cucumbers._--It is late to plant, but they may be put in for pickles if
done before the Fourth. Cultivate those which are up, and keep an eye
open for bugs.

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