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Charles Philip Yorke, Fourth Earl of Hardwicke, Vice Admiral R.N.

L >> Lady Biddulph of Ledbury >> Charles Philip Yorke, Fourth Earl of Hardwicke, Vice Admiral R.N.




'Your devoted,

'CHARLES.'

* * * * *

KONITZ: June 25, 1842.

'I have arrived at the end of my second day's journey towards Dantzig,
where I meet the King, who went by another road for the purpose of
paying a visit to the frontier town of Posen, where he was to be
entertained by the inhabitants. As I told you, I had a route given me
and thus far am I advanced, post horses standing ready at each station,
the authorities waiting on me and showing me every attention that a
Pacha might require. I must say more could not be done to make all most
agreeable to me, I have come 100 miles in twelve hours on the most
excellent road without a jolt, very good accommodation and eating.'

* * * * *

DANTZIG: June 26.

'I am safe and sound at the ancient Port of Dantzig, the corn exporting
place, the terror of English farmers. I found that I was quartered on
arrival at the English Consul's, where I have an excellent apartment and
was most kindly received by him and his family, the lady being a
Prussian, and from what I have seen of her a most excellent and charming
person.

'My journey to-day has been less agreeable than the two previous ones
from heavy rain all day, country passed through of the same general
character, the land improving in quality as we approach Dantzig. Between
Konitz and (?) Pral Rittelm we cross a small stream called the Pral,
full of salmon and fine trout. I thought of my absent fishing tackle,
but it is better I had it not, as I should have got wet to a certainty,
but I mark him for some other day.

'The country is a Catholic country, wooden images of the crucified
Saviour on the road-sides, and the greater part of cottages here built
of timber log, and the people in an inferior condition.

'As soon as I had dined with the Consul I took my way to the shore of
the Vistula. The sight of its banks was to me most interesting, covered
with sheaves of wheat covering acres of ground, while the river is
covered with rafts of timber and large boats built for the voyage down,
but being broken up for fire wood as soon as the cargo of wheat is
landed. Here the grain remains till sold to the merchant, when it is
carried to the granaries in the town, or rather to an island in the
middle of the town called Speicher Insel. On this island there is no
other building but granaries. The corn contained is 500,000 or 600,000
qrs. of wheat. On a fine day on the shore of the river are to be seen
the figures of two hundred men and women, Poles, working the wheat by
turning it over and over with shovels till it is dry, as the voyage down
the river is sometimes five or six weeks, and the corn heats and grows;
thus it requires much turning on its arrival.

'The Poles who come down with it, are the most savage and uncouth
looking people I ever saw, excepting Finns and Esquimaux; indeed, they
are very like them. But their character here is that they are a most
inoffensive race, suffer much fatigue and privation, and gain but little
by their voyage. They are in the hands of Jewish supercargoes, one of
which nation is to be seen in every regiment and in every boat. These
poor people, after the cargo is sold, walk home again 600 or 700 miles.
Price of wheat on the shore 55s. per qr. That won't hurt us. The King is
expected tomorrow late in the evening. Good-night.

'Monday night, ten o'clock.--The day is past and I have returned for the
night. The King arrived at six o'clock, I waited on him directly he was
in the room; he had me to dine with him, and seated me next him at
table. The Prince Menschikoff, the head of the Russian Navy, was there;
he has come to take the King to Russia with two steam ships.

'I visited to-day the lions of Dantzig--the Exchange, the Cathedral, and
the Armoury. The Exchange is a most curious building of great antiquity,
and the hall is certainly the most curious and grotesque room in the
world. The walls are covered with large pictures and wooden statues
painted in colour. It is a Gothic edifice built in 1379, and the roof of
the hall is supported by four slender pillars. The most singular picture
on the wall is a representation of the church under the form of a ship
sailing to heaven full of monks, who are throwing out ropes and hooks to
haul on board a few miserable sinners, who but for this timely
assistance would be drowned.

'In front of the building is a fine fountain ornamented with a bronze
figure of Neptune drawn by sea-horses. The whole effect of the hall is
most curious and beautiful. Near this building is the Town Hall, in
which is the room in which the old Senate, now the Corporation, sit. Its
beauty is difficult to describe, the ceiling is richly carved in wood,
in each compartment is a fine and brilliant picture by some old master.

'The church, of which I send a sketch, is one of the most curious in
Europe; the Lutherans have preserved it exactly as it was; rich to a
degree in painting, sculpture, and brass, though not of the highest
order, yet, to the eye, rich in effect. The two great objects in it are
a picture by Van Eyck, and a crucified Saviour in wood as large as life.
It is called the "Marien Kirche," and was begun in 1343 by the grand
master of the Teutonic Knights. The architect was Ulric Ritter of
Strasburg. The vaulted roof is supported by twenty-six slender brick
pillars, ninety-eight feet from the pavement; around the interior are
fifty chapels, originally founded by the chief citizens for their
families. The great ornament is the picture by John Van Eyck known as
the Dantzig picture. It was painted for the Pope, and while on its way
to Rome was taken by pirates. It was retaken by a Dantzig vessel and
deposited in the cathedral, where it remained till 1807, when the French
took the town and it was carried to Paris. On its return after the war,
the King of Prussia wished to retain it in Berlin, and offered the town
40,000 dollars as a compensation, but they would not part with their
picture. I think it a wonderful picture, it is as fresh as the day it
was painted, and the colour bestowed on it is amazing; but, like all
this class of pictures, to me it is only wonderful.

'The Crucifix is fine, and the story goes that the artist crucified his
servant that he might make a good article.

'Fahrenheit, who invented the thermometer, was born here. The great
street of the town is the most beautiful I ever saw, the houses with the
gables to the street no two alike, richly ornamented with elaborate
cornices and carving of figures and flowers. Flights of steps from the
door, some projecting more than others into the street, some with stone
rail, some iron, some brass. Most curious, antique, and beautiful. It is
a fine and interesting old town. So much for Dantzig.'

* * * * *

At the Entrance of the Gulf of Finland, on board the Emperor of Russia's
Steam Frigate _Bogatir_:

* * * * *

June 30, 1842.

'Since I despatched my letter from Dantzig I have made progress thus far
towards my ultimate and extreme point, and to-morrow evening I expect to
be safe under the roof of the Emperor of all the Russias. I closed my
letter to you on the 27th, and I shall resume the thread of my story
from that time. At nine o'clock on the 28th the King reviewed the
Garrison of Dantzig, a small army of about 2000 men, consisting of two
regiments of infantry, one of cavalry, and eight guns. I accompanied him
on horseback; the turn-out was very good indeed, the men small but
healthy and active, and moved very well, in all points extremely well
equipped. Afterwards His Majesty drove about the town and visited
everything, not only the public buildings that I have described to you,
but also wherever a bit of old carving, or old wardrobe, or the façade
of a house that was curious was to be found, there he paid a visit. He
gave a great dinner at two o'clock to 100 of his chief people and
officers. During the repast a regiment of infantry sang national songs
in parts most beautifully, the choruses, with 800 or 1000 voices, very
fine. We embarked at seven in a small steam boat which took us down the
Vistula and aboard the frigate. Throughout the day I have been struck
with the position of this Monarch and his people.

'No guards, no escorts, not even a guard of honour or police, all
affection and order. He walked about amongst thousands of his people,
like a father among his loving children. He was remarkably well received
everywhere and it made him very happy. He is very familiar with his
officers, and talks to his servants with kindness and good humour,
frequently making them laugh and laughing in return. In short, I am much
struck with the difference of forms in the constitutional and despotic
country, and with the pomp of the former and familiarity and freedom of
the latter. In parting with his officers he pressed many of them with
warmth and affection to his heart.

'The two Russian steam ships that convey us to St. Petersburg are very
fine vessels, the one we are on board of is the smallest of the two,
being about 1000 tons and 200 horse power, the other 1800 tons with 600
horse power. This vessel, the _Bogatir_, is superbly fitted and
quite equal in all points to any I have seen in England.

'July 1 (Friday, 5 P.M.).--I was obliged to leave this scrawl of mine
yesterday, for really what with the engine, the eating and the talking,
I could do little in the way of writing; moreover, I have had no bed,
though a very good cabin, but have slept three nights in my clothes on
the sofa. Well here I am well lodged with a suite of apartments in the
Palace of Peterhoff with the Emperor and the Court. It has been a day of
great interest, and ought to have been one of excitement, but I find
that nothing of this sort excites me; so much the better, I can profit
more, though I do not enjoy so much.

'This morning at four o'clock I was on deck and we passed a division of
the Russian Fleet under sail, one three-decker and eight two-deckers of
80 and 74 guns, four frigates, two corvettes, and three or four brigs;
the line-of-battle ships formed the line of battle on the larboard tack
and bore up with us, but the wind being light they did not keep long in
company. At equal distance were placed, for the purpose of communication
by signal, vessels of war, frigates, and brigs, who gave the Emperor
early information of our approach. Of course we were everywhere received
with a cannonade from every vessel.

'On approaching Cronstadt the Emperor, Empress, and all the Court came
out to meet us in a steam yacht; there was also on board the Prince of
the Netherlands and his Princess. At Cronstadt another division of the
Fleet was at anchor, nine sail of the line and six or seven frigates. Of
the Fleet I shall speak another time.

'After passing the batteries at Cronstadt we anchored, and the Emperor
pushed off in a boat from his yacht and fetched the King, his suite went
on board in another boat. The meeting between the King and the Imperial
family was most affectionate, and after the hurry and excitement of this
event had subsided, I was presented by the King to the Emperor.

'You cannot conceive anything more frank, noble, open, and kind, than
the bearing of this great man, he put me at once at my ease, and talked
to me both in French and English, on such commonplace matters as best
suited the occasion.

'He then presented me to the Empress, her manner was most kind and
gentle, but her beauty is gone, and she looks very thin. Luncheon was
served on deck, the Imperial family and the King at one table, as they
sat down the Emperor called out "Lord Hardwicke these are my daughters,
they speak English." I of course went off to the two most lovely women,
Olga and Alexandrina, most charming in every way, their beauty is
surpassed by their sweetness of manner and address. An old lady of the
court took me under her protection during luncheon, but I have not yet
found out who she is. After luncheon the yacht which had anchored got
under way and stood over from the roads of Cronstadt to Peterhoff,
accompanied by six sail of small ships. The Emperor came up to me and
pointing to them he said, "These are my boys," explaining that they were
the pupils for the navy under his own eye. They live on board these six
vessels during summer and are always at work. Two little boys were on
deck in uniform, and I said, "And these are yours, are they not?" The
Empress was standing by and the Emperor replied in English, "Yes, they
are our own fabrique, are they not, Madame Nicolas?" placing his large
hand all over her face, she rejoined in Russian, "How you do talk." This
made me laugh, and the Emperor and Empress did so in a manner that
showed the joke was a good one. On landing, I, in company with the
Prussians, paid visits to the hereditary Grand Duke, to the Prince of
Prussia, to the Grand Duke Michael and his Duchess, a most charming
person, and two or three officers of state. I should tell you that on
the reception of the King there is a Guard of Honour before the Palace
of about 200 men, not more on the ground. I was struck with the manner
of the Emperor; he ordered what words of command should be given, and as
they broke into sections to march before the King, the Emperor placed
himself on the left of one of the companies, and marching with them,
saluted the King, and then fell out. The whole manner of this man is
most remarkable, and quite unlike anybody I ever saw.

'He is one of the finest and best-looking men in the world, and his
bearing corresponds. At four o'clock we went to dine, the Imperial
family dine at the Palace of the Grand Duchess Helena close by, and the
Court dined here in the Palace. I sat between Count Menschikoff, whom I
like very much (he is, as I told you, the head of the Navy) and a little
Court lady from Moscow, who might fascinate easily a heart that was
free. Dinner is over and I sit down to write this to you. As to myself I
am quite well, and shall profit all I can by this trip, but I shall be
heartily tired of it, I assure you; it is no joke. I would not be tied
to one of these Courts for all the world could give, it is such a
continued business of eating and dressing.

'I shall say nothing of Peterhoff or St. Petersburg, which I have not
seen. I see before me in all directions from the windows frames of wood
of enormous dimensions and various shapes for lighting up the gardens of
the Palace on the night of the Fête, although there is no night, so it
must be going through the forms of illumination only. However, we shall
see when it takes place, no doubt it will be most magnificent.

'All about me is most strange, a mixture of East and West, such as can
be nowhere else seen: savage and civilised life is here blended
together, blackies and turbans and laced footmen all wait at table
together.'

* * * * *

PETERHOFF: July 2, 1842.

'I find myself most completely provided for here. I have a sitting-room,
bedroom, and servant's room with all comforts....

'I must now give you some description of this place, but shall wait till
to-morrow that I may profit by my ride with the young ladies, who will
show me all the gardens.

'The Palace of Peterhoff with a front to the main building of 510 feet,
is situated on the top of a terrace which runs to a certain distance
along the left or north bank of the mouth of the Neva opposite
Cronstadt. The terrace overlooks the wide expanse of the Neva to
Cronstadt and St. Petersburg and far towards the sea; the distance from
the terrace to the sea is about half a mile. This part is planted with
trees of various kinds, fir, elm, ash, common kinds, and having attained
no great size, about the size of thirty years' growth in a tolerable
soil in England--these are cut into avenues or vistas at right angles to
one another, in which are statues, fountains, and canals, and this at
once gives you the character of the place. I neither rode nor wrote
yesterday evening, but fell asleep till I was called to dress at half-
past eight. By the bye, I have dressed six times to-day. I must leave my
description of Peterhoff to be continued till another time, as I wish to
relate to you what has passed here since nine o'clock P.M. till this
time. Your letter was delivered to me yesterday evening by one of the
Emperor's aide-de-camps in the middle of a game of romps such as I've
not enjoyed since I was a boy. At nine o'clock I was in the receptions
room of the Palace according to orders, all the Court were assembled,
but no strangers; the company might amount to about sixty, the Emperor,
Empress, the three Grand Duchesses, their daughters, the Czarewitch, the
Prince of the Netherlands, and many others, with the King of Prussia.
After some little formality the doors of a large apartment were thrown
open, in which was no furniture but a few chairs. In the room adjoining
was a full band. The Empress said to me, "You must come with us and not
play cards, we are going to play some innocent games." All formality was
now at an end, the Imperial family joined with the Court and the game
began. It was the game with a rope, which I daresay you have seen. All
take hold of it and one is in the middle, the one in the middle must
strike the hand of anyone holding the rope, who then takes his place in
the middle. I think you must have seen this game, a very innocent one,
and makes fun. After this had gone on for some time, the Emperor takes
hold of the cord, pushed it and the company into a corner of the room,
and the game became more vivacious, and a general romp ensued, some
fell, some rushed into the Emperor's arms, who stood like a colossus at
the end of the room with open arms to receive those who sought shelter
there. This could be seen nowhere else. We then supped at round tables,
the ladies sending for the gentlemen they chose to make the party. After
supper the Imperial family retired. It was a most delightful evening.

'Words cannot convey an idea of the affability and kindness, the
sweetness and amiability of this great family. I shall put by my pen
just now and write the details of the day to-night, if not too sleepy.
But it is not a Sunday passed as it ought to be, though we have been to
church.

'Monday, 10.30 A.M.--I am waiting for a message from the Emperor, who
yesterday told me that I was to go to Cronstadt with him this morning,
and warning me at the same time that he would do all he could to tire me
completely. We yesterday had a very hard day. At eleven o'clock we went
to the Greek chapel in the Palace, the whole Court attending divine
service. Of the ceremonial of the Greek Church I shall only say that its
forms are in appearance more absurd than the Romish. The music and
chanting was most sublime and beautiful, nothing could exceed the
excellence of this performance. The chapel is small but highly decorated
in the interior with paintings of rather a high finish and gold, in the
style of Louis XIV, though the form of the chapel does not much vary
from the same date, yet its proportions do, for it is three times as
lofty as its area is broad, with a domed ceiling. After church a parade,
here the Emperor and the King of Prussia played soldiers for an hour and
a half. Suffice it to say, without relating all the marching and
counter-marching of the troops, that the King of Prussia's regiment (for
he is a colonel in the Russian Army) was drawn up, the King inspected
the men and then put himself on the right of the line, the Emperor then
went up to him and, taking him in his arms, kissed both his cheeks, then
the King marched past the Emperor at the head of his regiment. The
Empress was on the ground.

'Monday.--I dined with the Royal Family, 150 sat down; we did not go to
Cronstadt to-day, I am not sorry, for it rained. The dinner was good for
a Russian and not long. The service on the table all china from Berlin,
given by Frederick the Great to Katharine.

'After dinner to the St. Peterburg Gate, about three miles off, where I
found a horse ready for me to attend a review of the military cadets. It
was a very interesting sight, 3000 boys in heavy marching order with
eight guns, a small body of light horse, and a small body of Circassian
Horse, forming a complete little army. Their marching and evolutions
were most excellent, no troops can move better than these boys. The
Emperor and his staff rode so as to cut the column off three times, then
they passed in review three times before him, and were dismissed. As
soon as they had time to disarm, the youths came rushing out in all
directions. The Emperor dismounted and was at once surrounded by them.
He lifted one, took another in his arms, passed two or three under his
legs, and spoke with frankness and affection to all. The love and
enthusiasm of these children for him is such as is found only in the
breast of youth, but must grow in time; and what a power this one
institution must give him. These boys are all of good family, and go
from this training to the army as officers. After this, at nine, a ball
at the Emperor's cottage.'

* * * * *

Lord Hardwicke remained in St. Petersburg for a fortnight, leaving that
city on the 13th of July for Memel, in attendance on the King of
Prussia, who was returning to Berlin by way of Silesia.

As long as he was in Russia at the Court of the Emperor Nicholas, he
experienced (as the foregoing letters show) the most generous, nay
lavish, hospitality. In this connection the following anecdote may be
recorded. An allowance, consisting of one bottle of brandy and one of
champagne, was placed on a tray in his room each morning. He rarely
touched it, but when at the end of his visit the servant in waiting
brought him a bill for the champagne, he sharply turned and said, 'Very
well, I shall show this bill to the Emperor myself,' at which the
servant turned deadly pale and replied, 'I beg you will do no such
thing, or I shall certainly be sent to Siberia!'

* * * * *

MEMEL: July 18, 1842.

'This will be a short letter as the time passed since I wrote is small.
We arrived here about noon to-day, having had a good passage and are all
well. You will by this time feel that I am returning, and that my face
is towards home. The King has pressed me to stay and go to the Rhine
with him, but I have decided the point, and have declined his great
kindness, thus I shall keep my word and hope to be at home again, at the
time I stated.

'I believe I told you that the _fête_ passed off well, our
promenade amongst the lamps in the garden was stupid enough. I tried to
stir the Maids of Honour up a little, but it was hard work even to make
them laugh, and the people looked glum, being as it were a sort of
contradiction to the illuminated garden. The last day was a day of
repose. The next day being Saturday, the Imperial Family received us to
take leave, and nothing could be more truly kind and affectionate in
manner than they all were to me. I say to me, for I know not what was
said to others, but I have no doubt they were so to all the Prussians.
The Emperor and Empress both gave me special messages to the Queen. I
then, when the audience was over, drove to visit the Grand Duke Michael
at Orienbaum, about six miles from Peterhoff, an ancient palace, and a
very fine one, I think. The Grand Duchess Helena, his wife, is a most
charming lady and very lovely; she took me all over the house, and
showed me how little by little she was making it comfortable.

'The Grand Duchess Marie did not see me, and I was very sorry for it. At
twelve o'clock the King and Emperor came on board the _Bogatir_ and
we got under way immediately. At about one we passed Cronstadt; at half-
past one we had passed the last ship of the fleet. I was standing on the
paddle-box near the Emperor and King, when on a rocket being thrown up
from the _Bogatir_, all the fleet, mounting 3500 pieces of cannon,
discharged all the guns at once, and the Emperor at the same moment took
the King in his arms and embraced him. This bit of stage effect took me
by surprise and affected me exceedingly; there was something very
imposing and touching in this _coup de théâtre_ and the King was
much affected. After this the boat was manned for the Emperor to depart,
and he stood some time on deck without speaking, the King and all of us
standing near him. I saw he was much moved. At last he pressed the King
in his arms and kissed him; after he embraced the Prussians. When he
came to me, he held out his hand; I gave him mine and bowed, but he
said, "No, no; you must do so," and taking me round the neck kissed me
most affectionately.

'I assure you it was a very striking scene and I shall never forget it;
he was no more the Emperor, but a warm-hearted man. He was most affected
at parting with the King, and this had softened him towards all, and his
heart was uppermost. I was glad to see him thus. I did not think before
he was a man of feeling, but he has a warm and affectionate heart. I
shall not easily forget this evening.

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