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Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa

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TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

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[Illustration: Mungo Park]

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LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK


With a full narrative of

Subsequent Adventure in Central Africa.


[Illustration: The Lion quietly suffered us to pass, though we were
fairly within his reach.]

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CONTENTS.


INTRODUCTION.

Knowledge of the Ancients concerning Africa. Herodotus. Strabo. The
Arabs. Early discoveries of the Portuguese and English. Ledyard. Lucas.
Houghton. Park's birth and parentage. His education. Serves his
apprenticeship as a surgeon. Sails for Bencoolen. African association
engage Park's services. His preparations and departure.


CHAPTER I.

Park's motives for undertaking the voyage--his instructions and
departure--arrives at Jillifree, on the Gambia River--proceeds to
Vintain. Some account of the Feloops. Proceeds up the river for
Jonkakonda--arrives at Dr. Laidley's. Some account of Pisania, and the
British factory established at that place. The Author's employment during
his stay at Pisania--his sickness and recovery--the country
described--prepares to set out for the interior.


CHAPTER II.

Description of the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and Mandingoes.
Some account of the trade between the nations of Europe and the natives
of Africa by the way of the Gambia, and between the native inhabitants of
the coast and the nations of the interior countries--their mode of
selling and buying, &c.


CHAPTER III.

The Author sets out from Pisania--his attendants--reaches Jindy. Story
related by a Mandingo Negro. Proceeds to Medina, the capital of Woolli.
Interview with the King. Saphies or charms. Proceeds to Kolor.
Description of Mumbo Jumbo--arrives at Koojar--wrestling match--crosses
the wilderness, and arrives at Tallika, in the Kingdom of Bondou.


CHAPTER IV.

Some account of the inhabitants of Tallika. The Author proceeds for
Fatteconda--incidents on the road. Crosses the Neriko, arrives at
Koorkarany--reaches the River Faleme--Fishery on that river--proceeds
along its banks to Naye or Nayemow--crosses the Falemé, and arrives at
Fatteconda. Has an interview with Almami, the Sovereign of Bondou.
Description of the King's dwelling--has a second interview with the King,
who begs the Author's Coat. Author visits the King's wives--is permitted
to depart on friendly terms. Journey by night--arrives at Joag. Some
account of Bondou and its inhabitants, the Foulahs.


CHAPTER V.

Account of Kajaaga. Serawoollies--their manners and language. Account of
Joag. The Author is ill treated, and robbed of half of his effects, by
order of Batcheri, the king. Charity of a female slave.--The Author is
visited by Demba Sego, nephew of the King of Kasson, who offers to
conduct him in safety to that kingdom. Offer accepted. The Author and his
protector, with a numerous retinue, set out and reach Samee, on the banks
of the Senegal. Proceed to Kayee, and, crossing the Senegal, arrive in
the kingdom of Kasson.


CHAPTER VI.

Arrival at Teesee. Interview with Tiggity Sego, the king's brother. The
Author's detention at Teesee. Some account of that place and its
inhabitants. Incidents which occurred there. Rapacious conduct of Tiggity
Sego toward the Author on his departure. Sets out for Kooniakary, the
capital of the kingdom. Incidents on the road, and arrival at Kooniakary.


CHAPTER VII.

The Author admitted to an audience of the King of Kasson, whom he finds
well disposed towards him. Incidents during the Author's stay at
Kooniakary. Departs thence for Kemmoo, the capital of Kaarta. Is received
with great kindness by the King of Kaarta, who dissuades him from
prosecuting his journey, on account of approaching hostilities with the
King of Bambarra. The Author determines, notwithstanding, to proceed: and
the usual route being obstructed, takes the path to Ludamar, a Moorish
kingdom. Is accommodated by the king with a guide to Jarra, the frontier
town of the Moorish territories; and sets out for that place, accompanied
by three of the king's sons, and 200 horsemen.


CHAPTER VIII.

Journey from Kemmoo to Funingkedy. Some account of the Lotus. A youth
murdered by the Moors--interesting scene at his death. Author passes
through Simbing. Some particulars concerning Major Houghton. Author
reaches Jarra--situation of the surrounding states at the period of his
arrival there, and a brief account of the war between Kaarta and
Bambarra.


CHAPTER IX.

Some account of Jarra, and the Moorish inhabitants. The Author applies
for and obtains permission from Ali, the Moorish chief or sovereign of
Ludamar, to pass through his territories. Departs from Jarra, and arrives
at Deena. Ill treated by the Moors. Proceeds to Sampaka. Finds a Negro
who makes gunpowder. Continues his journey to Samee, where he is seized
by some Moors, who are sent for that purpose by Ali. Is conveyed a
prisoner to the Moorish camp at Benowm, on the borders of the Great
Desert.


CHAPTER X.

Various occurrences during the Author's confinement at Benowm--is visited
by some Moorish ladies. A funeral and wedding. The Author receives an
extraordinary present from the bride. Other circumstances illustrative of
the Moorish character and manners.


CHAPTER XI.

Occurrences at the camp continued. Information collected by the Author
concerning Houssa and Tombuctoo; and the situation of the latter. The
route described from Morocco to Benowm. The Author's distress from
hunger. Ali removes his camp to the northward. The Author is carried
prisoner to the new encampment, and is presented to Queen Fatima. Great
distress from want of water.


CHAPTER XII.

Containing some further miscellaneous reflections on the Moorish
character and manners. Observations concerning the Great Desert, its
animals, wild and domestic.


CHAPTER XIII.

Ali departs for Jarra, and the Author allowed to follow him thither. The
Author's faithful servant, Demba, seized by Ali's order, and sent back
into slavery. Ali returns to his camp, and permits the Author to remain
at Jarra, who, thenceforward, meditates his escape. Daisy, King of
Kaarta, approaching with his army towards Jarra, the inhabitants quit the
town, and the Author accompanies them in their flight. A party of Moors
overtake him at Queira. He gets away from them at daybreak. Is again
pursued by another party, and robbed; but finally effects his escape.


CHAPTER XIV.

The Author feels great joy at his deliverance, and proceeds through the
wilderness; but finds his situation very deplorable. Suffers greatly from
thirst, and faints on the sand.--Recovers, and makes another effort to
push forward. Is providentially relieved by a fall of rain. Arrives at a
Foulah village, where he is refused relief by the Dooty, but obtains food
from a poor woman. Continues his journey through the wilderness, and the
next day lights on another Foulah village, where he is hospitably
received by one of the shepherds. Arrives on the third day at a Negro
town called Wawra, tributary to the King of Bambarra.


CHAPTER XV.

The Author proceeds to Wassiboo. Is joined by some fugitive Kaartans, who
accompany him in his route through Bambarra. Discovers the Niger. Some
account of Sego, the capital of Bambarra. Mansong the king refuses to see
the Author, but sends him a present. Great hospitality of a Negro woman.


CHAPTER XVI.

Departure from Sego, and arrival at Kabba. Description of the shea, or
vegetable butter tree. The Author and his guide arrive at Sansanding.
Behaviour of the Moors at that place. The Author pursues his journey to
the eastward. Incidents on the road. Arrives at Modiboo, and proceeds for
Kea, but obliged to leave his horse by the way. Embarks at Kea in a
fisherman's canoe for Moorzan: is conveyed from thence across the Niger
to Silla--determines to proceed no further eastward. Some account of the
further course of the Niger, and the towns in its vicinage towards the
East.


CHAPTER XVII.

The Author returns westward. Arrives at Modiboo, and recovers his horse.
Finds great difficulty in travelling in consequence of the rains and the
overflowing of the river. Is informed that the King of Bambarra had sent
persons to apprehend him. Avoids Sego, and prosecutes his journey along
the banks of the Niger. Incidents on the road. Cruelties attendant on
African wars. The Author crosses the river Frina, and arrives at Taffara.


CHAPTER XVIII.

Inhospitable reception at Taffara. A Negro funeral at Sooha. The Author
continues his route through several villages along the banks of the
Niger, until he comes to Koolikorro. Supports himself by writing
_saphies_--reaches Maraboo--loses the road; and, after many
difficulties, arrives at Bammakoo. Takes the road for Sibidooloo--meets
with great kindness at a village called Kooma;--is afterwards robbed,
stripped, and plundered by banditti. The Author's resource and
consolation under exquisite distress. He arrives in safety at Sibidooloo.


CHAPTER XIX.

Government of Manding. The Author's reception by the Mansa, or chief man
of Sibidooloo, who takes measures for the recovery of his horse and
effects. The Author removes to Wonda. Great scarcity, and its afflicting
consequences. The Author recovers his horse and clothes. Presents his
horse to the Mansa, and prosecutes his journey to Kamalia. Some account
of that town. The Author's kind reception by Karfa Taura, a slatee, who
proposes to go to the Gambia in the next dry season, with a caravan of
slaves. The Author's sickness, and determination to remain and accompany
Karfa.


CHAPTER XX.

Of the climate and seasons. Winds. Vegetable productions. Population.
General observations on the character and disposition of the Mandingoes;
and a summary account of their manners and habits of life; their
marriages.


CHAPTER XXI.

The account of the Mandingoes continued. Their notions in respect of the
planetary bodies, and the figure of the earth. Their religious opinions,
and belief in a future state. Their diseases and methods of treatment.
Their funeral ceremonies, amusements, occupations, diet, art,
manufactures.


CHAPTER XXII.

Observations concerning the state and sources of slavery in Africa.


CHAPTER XXIII.

Of gold-dust, and the manner in which it is collected. Process of washing
it. Its value in Africa. Of ivory. Surprise of the Negroes at the
eagerness of the Europeans for this commodity. Scattered teeth frequently
picked up in the woods. Mode of hunting the elephant. Some reflections on
the unimproved state of the country, &c.


CHAPTER XXIV.

Transactions at Kamalia resumed. Arabic MSS. in use among the Mahomedan
Negroes. Reflections concerning the conversion and education of the Negro
children. Return of the Author's benefactor, Karfa. Further account of
the purchase and treatment of slaves. Fast of Rhamadan, how observed by
the Negroes. Author's anxiety for the day of departure. The Caravan sets
out. Account of it on its departure, and proceedings on the road, until
its arrival at Kinytakooro.


CHAPTER XXV.

The coffle crosses the Jallonka Wilderness. Miserable fate of one of the
female slaves. Arrives at Sooseeta. Proceeds to Manna. Some account of
the Jallonkas. Crosses the main stream of the Senegal. Bridge of a
singular construction. Arrives at Malacotta. Remarkable conduct of the
King of the Jaloffs.


CHAPTER XXVI.

The caravan proceeds to Konkadoo, and crosses the Falemé River. Its
arrival at Baniserile, Kirwani, and Tambacunda. Incidents on the road. A
matrimonial case. The caravan proceeds through many towns and villages,
and arrives at length on the banks of the Gambia. Passes through Medina,
the capital of Woolli, and finally stops at Jindey. The Author,
accompanied by Karfa, proceeds to Pisania. Various occurrences previous
to his departure from Africa. Takes his passage in an American ship.
Short account of his voyage to Great Britain by way of the West Indies.


CHAPTER XXVII.

Horneman's journey from Egypt to Fezzan. Attempts to penetrate to the
south. Nicholls--Roentgen--Adams.


CHAPTER XXVIII.

Park's arrival at Pisania. Returns to England. Reception from the African
Association. Visits Scotland. Publication of his travels. Popularity of
the work. Settles as a surgeon at Peebles. Proposed Expedition to Africa.
Sir Walter Scott's account of Park. Park's arrangements completed.
Receives his instructions, and sets sail.


CHAPTER XXIX.

Arrival at St. Jago. Reaches Goree. Letters from that place. Arrival at
Kayee--hires a guide, and sets out. Difficulties. Woolo-Bamboo. Tornado.
Sickness of the soldiers. Park's situation. Bambarra. Attacked by lions
at night at Koena. Isaaco attacked by a crocodiles. Depredations of the
natives. Cross the Ba-Woolima, Nummasoolo. Illness of Messrs Scott and
Martyn, and of Mr. Anderson. Reach the Niger at Bambakoo.


CHAPTER XXX.

Distressed state of Park. Mortality in the expedition. Negociations with
Mansong. Interview with Modibinnie. Park's speech. Reaches Sansanding.
Death of Mr. Anderson. Park builds a schooner. Letters from Sansanding.
Departs from Sansanding. Uncertainty respecting his fate. Isaaco's
narrative. Confirmed by subsequent travellers. Account of Park's death.
His character.


CHAPTER XXXI.

Expedition of Tuckey--of Peddie--and Gray.


CHAPTER XXXII.

Major Denham, Captain Clapperton, and Dr. Oudney arrive at Mourzouk.
Boo-Khaloom. The desert. Tibboos and Tuaricks. Lake Tchad. Shiek of
Bornou. Expedition to Mandara. Attack on Dirkulla. Defeat of the army.
Major Denham's escape. Death of Boo-Kaloom. Major Denham visits Loggun.
Fishing on the river Yeou. The Shouaa Arabs. Death of Dr. Oudney. Arrival
at Kano. Sockatoo. Denham and Clapperton return by Kouka.


CHAPTER XXXIII.

Captain Clapperton sets out on a second journey. Death of three principal
members of the expedition. Clapperton and Lander reach Eyeo. Arrive at
Kacunda. Enter the Borgoo country. Lander's escape from Lions. Kiama.
Boussa. Nyffe. Zeg-Zeg. Attack of Coonia. Residence in Sockatoo. Death
and burial of Clapperton. Lander's return.


CHAPTER XXXIV.

Major Laing--his murder. Caillie reaches Timbuctoo. His march across the
Desert.


CHAPTER XXXV.

Richard and John Lander set out. Badagry. Journey to Kiama. African horse
race. Kakafungi. Boussa. Sail up the Niger to Yaoorie. Embark at Boussa.
Island of Zagoshi. Dangerous situation of the travellers. Egga. Hostile
demonstration of the natives. The Landers attacked. Carried to Eboe. King
Obie. Conduct of Captain Lake. Arrive at Fernando Po. Remarks on the
discovery of the Niger's termination.


CHAPTER XXXVI.

Messrs Laird, Oldfield, and Lander, set out in the Quorra and Alburkah.
Attack of the natives. Leave Eboe. Mortality on board the vessels.
Capture of an alligator. Aspect of the Niger near the Kong Mountains. The
Quorra aground. Fundah. Mr. Laird returns to the coast. Richard Lander
wounded. His death. Return of the Alburkah. Conclusion.

* * * * *

INTRODUCTION.

_Progress of African Discovery, before Park's first Expedition.--Park's
Early Life._


The first information we have respecting the interior of Africa is
derived from Herodotus, who, during his residence in Egypt, endeavoured
to collect as much intelligence as possible respecting the general aspect
of the country. He describes it as far less fertile than the cultivated
parts of Europe and Asia, and much exposed to drought, with the exception
of a few verdant spots. To the northern coast, he gives the name of the
forehead of Africa; and says that immediately south from it, the
comparative fertility of the soil rapidly decreases. There are natural
hills of salt, out of which the inhabitants scoop houses to shelter
themselves from the weather; rain they have not to fear, as scarcely a
drop ever alights upon that sultry region. Farther south still, there is
no food to support man or beast--neither shrub, nor a single drop of
water; all is silence and utter desolation. Herodotus then proceeds to
relate a number of monstrous fables, which bear an overwhelming
proportion to the parts of his narrative which are now known to be true.
He also describes a large inland river, which some have supposed to be
the Niger, flowing from west to east. He acquired this information from
the reports of various travellers, who stated that after a long journey
to the interior, they had themselves seen it. This account was confirmed
by several other ancient authors; but for a long time the question was
agitated by modern writers as to whether the Gambia or the Senegal was
not the river spoken of; some even denying the existence of the Niger
altogether.

The fables of Herodotus were repeated, with a number of additions, by
Diodorus; but the narrative of Strabo, in regard to the northern and
western coasts, is somewhat more particular and authentic: it adds
nothing, however, to our acquaintance with the interior. The Greeks,
under the government of the Ptolemies, navigated the Red Sea, and carried
on a trade with Egypt; and some settlements were made by them in that
country. Ptolemy Euergetes conquered part of Abyssinia, and established a
kingdom, of which Axum was the metropolis; and remains of Grecian
architecture have since been found in that quarter. To the two districts
we have mentioned, the knowledge which the ancients possessed of Africa
was almost exclusively confined; though Herodotus speaks of two voyages
which had been undertaken with a view to determine the shape of the
continent; but as nothing interesting can be gleaned from his indistinct
narrative, and as the reality even of these voyages has been disputed, it
seems unnecessary to give any account of them.

As in this brief sketch we are to confine ourselves entirely to
discoveries made in the interior of Africa, we shall not mention either
the various voyages made along the shores, or the different settlements
formed upon the coast, as this would lead us far beyond our narrow
limits.

The Arabians were the first who introduced the camel into Africa, an
animal whose strength and swiftness peculiarly suited it for traversing
the immense expanse of burning sands. By means of caravans, the Arabians
were enabled to hold intercourse with the interior, whence they procured
supplies of gold and slaves; and many of them migrated to the south of
the Great Desert. Their number rapidly increased, and being skilled in
the art of war, they soon became the ruling power. They founded several
kingdoms; the principal one, called Gano, soon became the greatest market
for gold, and, under the name of Kano, is still extensive and populous,
being the chief commercial place in the interior of Africa. The Arabian
writers of the twelfth century, give the most gorgeous, and we fear
overrated, accounts of the flourishing state of these kingdoms.

In the fourteenth century, Ibn Batuta, an abridged account of whose
travels has been recently translated by Professor Lee of Cambridge, made
a journey into Central Africa. After having travelled twenty-five days
with a caravan, he came to a place which Major Rennel supposes to be the
modern Tisheet, containing the mine whence Timbuctoo is supplied with
salt. The houses he describes as built of slabs of salt, roofed with
camels' hides. After other twenty days he reached Tashila, three days'
journey from which he entered a dreary desert, where was neither
sustenance nor water, but only plains and hills of sand. Ten days brought
him to Abu Latin, a large commercial town much frequented by merchants.
This place Mr. Murray conjectures to have been Walet, the only large city
in that quarter.

In twenty-four days Ibn Batuta reached Mali, which it has been found
impossible to identify with any modern city. He found a haughty potentate
residing there, whose subjects paid him the greatest deference,
approaching prostrate to the throne, and casting dust upon their heads.
The trees in this neighbourhood were of immense bulk; and in the hollow
cavity of one he saw a weaver carrying on his occupation. Near this he
saw the Niger, but conjectured it to be the Nile, and supposed it to flow
by Timbuctoo, Kakaw, (Kuku), Yuwi, and thence by Nubia to Egypt.

Leo Africanus penetrated into the interior of Africa about two centuries
after Ibn Batuta. From his description, it would appear that the aspect
of Central Africa had considerably changed during this interval.
Timbuctoo was a powerful and opulent kingdom; and Gago (evidently the
Eyeo of Clapperton), and Ghinea, (probably the Jenne of Park), were
flourishing cities. The merchants of Timbuctoo were opulent, and two of
them were married to princesses. Science and literature were cultivated,
and manuscripts bore a high price. The king was wealthy, and maintained
an army of 3000 horse, and a large body of infantry. His courtiers shone
resplendent with gold; his palace, and several of the mosques, were
handsome edifices of stone; but his subjects dwelt in oval huts, formed
of stakes, clay, and reeds.

From this period till the formation of the African Association in 1788,
no certain information was obtained concerning Central Africa. While
British enterprise and courage had made most important discoveries in
every other quarter of the world, the ignorance which prevailed
concerning Africa was felt to be most discreditable. A few
public-spirited individuals, desirous of wiping away this stigma, formed
themselves into an Association, and subscribed the requisite funds for
the purpose of sending out intelligent and courageous travellers upon
this hazardous mission. The management was intrusted to a committee,
consisting of Lord Rawdon, afterwards Marquis of Hastings, Sir Joseph
Banks, the Bishop of Landaff, Mr. Beaufoy, and Mr. Stuart.

The first individual whom they employed was Mr. Ledyard, the greater part
of whose life had been spent in travelling; he had circumnavigated the
globe along with Captain Cook, and had resided for a number of years
among the American Indians. On his return he presented himself to Sir
Joseph Banks, who was at that time anxiously looking out for a fit person
to be sent out under the auspices of the Association. He immediately saw
that Ledyard was a suitable person for them, and introduced him to Mr
Beaufoy, who was much struck with his resolute and determined appearance.
When Ledyard was asked when he could be ready to depart, he replied,
"to-morrow!" Soon after he sailed for Alexandria, intending to proceed
from Cairo to Sennaar, and thence to traverse the breadth of the
continent. While at Cairo, he sent home some excellent observations
concerning Egypt; and announced that his next communication would be
dated from Sennaar. But tidings of his death soon after reached England.
It appeared that some delays in the starting of the caravan which he was
to have accompanied, working on his impatient and restless spirit, had
brought on a bilious distemper, to check which he had applied improper
remedies at the outset, so that the disorder cut him off in spite of the
assistance of the most skilful physicians in Cairo.

The next traveller whom the Association engaged was Mr. Lucas. When a boy,
he had been sent to Cadiz, to be educated as a merchant. On his return he
was taken prisoner by a Sallee rover, and remained three years in
captivity at Morocco. He was afterwards appointed vice-consul at Morocco,
and spent there sixteen years, during which he acquired a great knowledge
of the chief African languages. On his return to England, he was made
oriental interpreter to the British court. Upon his expressing a desire
to set out on a journey in furtherance of the objects of the Association,
his Majesty not only granted his request, but also promised to continue
his salary as oriental interpreter during his absence. He set out by
Tripoli, and obtained from the Bey some promise of assistance. He
likewise made an arrangement with two Shereefs, or followers of the
Prophet, whose persons are held sacred, to join a caravan with which they
travelled. He went with them as far as Mesurata; but the Arabs of the
neighbourhood being in a state of revolt, the party could obtain neither
camels nor guides. Mr. Lucas therefore returned to Tripoli without making
further efforts to penetrate into the interior. He, however, obtained
from one of the Shereefs some particulars respecting the countries to the
south of Tripoli, and a memoir from his notes was drawn up by Mr. Beaufoy,
which, though in many respects imperfect and erroneous, nevertheless
threw a little additional light upon the condition of Africa. No correct
information was obtained concerning the Niger.

Enough of knowledge, however, was possessed to show that the districts
along the Gambia, stretching into the interior, afforded the most direct
method of reaching the Niger, and the countries through which it rolled.
Accordingly this was the route taken by the next adventurer, Major
Houghton, who seemed qualified for the task by the most ardent courage,
and by a considerable acquaintance with the manners both of the Moors and
negroes during his residence as consul at Morocco, and afterwards as
fort-major at Goree. But it would appear that this gallant officer was
strikingly deficient in the prudent and calculating temper which such an
arduous journey demanded. Having set out early in 1791, he speedily
reached Medina, the residence of the king of Wooli, who gave him
information respecting the best route to Timbuctoo, and promised to
furnish him with guides. During his residence Medina was entirely
destroyed by a conflagration, and Major Houghton was forced, along with
the inhabitants, to flee into the fields, carrying with him only a few
such articles as he could hastily snatch up. Thence he journeyed on to
Bambouk, and after crossing the Faleme arrived at Ferbanna, where the
king sent a guide along with him, and likewise furnished him with money
to defray the expenses of the journey. He was imprudent enough to carry
with him a quantity of merchandise, and thereby excited the cupidity off
the natives, with whom he was engaged in constant disputes. After a
complication of difficulties, he took a northern route, intending to
penetrate through Ludamar. The last intelligence received from him was
dated from Simbing, the frontier village of this state, and was merely
comprised in the following brief note, addressed to Dr. Laidley of
Pisania:--"Major Houghton's compliments to Dr. Laidley, is in good
health, on his way to Timbuctoo; robbed of all his goods by Fenda Bucar's
son." Soon after this, rumours of his death reached Pisania; but the
particulars were not known till Mr. Park's return, who brought certain
intelligence. It appeared that at Jarra he had engaged some Moorish
merchants to accompany him. They persuaded him to go to Tisheet, a place
frequented for its salt mines, without informing him that it was much out
of the direct road to Timbuctoo, intending to rob him by the way. In a
few days he suspected their treachery, and resolved to return to Jarra,
but, upon refusing to advance, he was stripped of every article, and then
deserted. He wandered about the desert, alone, and famishing, till,
utterly exhausted, he lay down under a tree and expired.

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