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Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa

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The party rested a day at Shrondo, but the distressing circumstances in
which they were involved did not prevent Park from visiting the gold
mines in the neighbourhood, and he gives in his journal a curious account
of the method in which the gold is obtained. He was guided by a woman to
a meadow where there were dug about thirty pits. Beside these lay heaps
of sand and gravel, to be conveyed to circular wash-pits, which were
lined with clay. Two calabashes are used, one large, into which the
gravel is put; the other small, with which the water is poured in. The
sand is then covered with the water, carefully crumbled down and shaken
in the calabash, and the lighter parts thrown out, till all that remains
is a black substance, called gold-rust. The shaking is then repeated, and
the grains of gold are sought out. Two pounds of gravel yield about
twenty-three particles of gold, some of which are very small; and the
bulk of gold-rust is about forty times that of the gold. The washing only
takes place at the time of the rains.

They next proceeded along the mountains of Konkodoo to Dindikoo, where
they saw a number of gold-pits, sunk about twelve feet deep, with notches
in the sides for steps. The mountains were lofty and steep, composed of a
coarse species of red granite, but cultivated to the very tops, and the
villages built in their glens were singularly romantic. "The
inhabitants," says Park, "have plenty of water, and grass at all seasons;
they have cattle enough for their own use, and their superfluous grain
purchases all their little luxuries; and while the thunder rolls in awful
grandeur over their heads, they can look from their tremendous precipices
over all that wild and woody plain, which extends from the Falemé to the
Black River." This plain was about forty miles in extent; the lions
abounded in the plain, but none were seen among the hills. On the 18th
they had great difficulty in getting the sick forward, though all the
spare horses and asses were reserved for their use. The ass which bore
the telescope and several other articles of consequence was missing; but
was brought on the following day by one of the natives who had caught it.

Park now began to be "very uneasy about their situation;" half of the
party were on the sick list, among whom were Messrs. Anderson and Scott,
and he himself was by no means well. They rested for one day at Fankia.
On the 15th their road lay along a steep and rocky pass in the mountains
of Tambaura. During this toilsome march they were in a state of dreadful
confusion. There were few drivers for the asses, which were overburdened
with the sick and baggage. The natives, seeing their weak state, followed
them, seizing every opportunity for pillage. At Serimanna, two of the men
were left behind. At Gambia, the natives having heard that the white men
were sickly, rose up in arms, and attempted to plunder the caravan. One
seized the Serjeant's horse, but on a pistol being presented, quitted his
hold. Others tried to drive away the asses with their loads. But the
soldiers stood firm, loaded their pieces with ball, and fixed bayonets;
upon which the natives hesitated, and the soldiers having placed the
asses in safety on the other side of a rivulet, returned. Park then
demanded of the Dooty that he should be suffered to proceed in peace. To
this after a little he consented, in consequence of the determined front
shown by the British, and to avoid farther molestation, Park deemed it
prudent to present him with four bars of amber. Near Sullo, the eyes of
the jaded and weary travellers were a little revived by the
picturesqueness of the scenery, which presented all the possible
diversities of rock, towering up like ruined castles, spires, and
pyramids. One place bore a very striking resemblance to a ruined Gothic
abbey,--the niches, windows, and staircase, having all counterparts in
the natural rock. Mr. Park describes the banks of the Ba-Fing and Ba-Lee,
two tributaries of the Senegal, to be rugged and grand beyond any thing
he had seen.

In crossing the Ba-Fing the canoe was upset, with three men in it, one of
whom was drowned. Park's efforts to restore animation were unavailing,
and he was buried on the banks of the river. The people on the banks were
a set of thieves, and endeavoured to make off with the medicine-chest.
Not a day now passed but one or other of the soldiers died of fever, or
was left behind. At Koeena, on the 2d July, they were much annoyed by
three lions, which, after prowling about all day, at midnight attacked
the asses, which broke their ropes, and rushed in among the tents. One of
the lions approached so near that the sentry made a cut at it with his
sword. They could not sleep, because of the noise of the hippopotami
which infested that part of the river. At this time several of the
soldiers strayed, and never came up with the party again, though muskets
were frequently fired to give intimation of the route. Next day one of
the soldiers became so exhausted that he could not sit upon the ass. He
was fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and
shortly after died. His body was brought forward to a place where the
front of the coffle had halted to allow the rear to come up. "Here," says
Park, "when the coffle had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their
bayonets, and myself with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert, and
a few branches were the only laurels that covered the tomb of the brave."
When Park came up to the halting-place, which was near a pool of water,
shaded with ground palm-trees, he found that two more of the soldiers
were missing. Lights were set up, partly to scare away the lions and also
to guide those who had not come up; and Park himself went back a
considerable part of the way in search of them, but only one came up,
who, next day, lagged behind through fatigue. Search was then made for
him, but he could not be found; and they supposed that he had been
devoured by the wild beasts.

On the 4th July they crossed the river Wonda; but as they had only one
canoe, the passage was both dangerous and tedious. Isaaco, the guide,
exerted himself much, endeavouring to drive six of the asses through a
little below where the party crossed, as the stream was there not so
deep. He had reached the middle of the river, when a crocodile rose,
seized him by the left thigh, and dragged him under water. With wonderful
presence of mind, however, he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his
finger into its eye. The monster quitted its hold for a moment, but then
seized his other thigh, and again pulled him under water. Isaaco again
thrust his fingers into its eyes. This proved effectual. The crocodile
rose to the surface, dashed about a while as if stupified, and then swam
down the middle of the river. Isaaco landed on the other side, bleeding
copiously. He was so much lacerated as for a time to be unfit for
travelling; and as his guidance was indispensable to the party, they
waited four days, to give his wounds time to heal.

On the 11th July they came to Keminoom, the strongest fortified town Park
had seen in Africa,--whence they were very desirous to depart, as they
found the inhabitants to be "thieves to a man," committing depredations
upon the travellers with the greatest coolness and impudence, in which
the King and his thirty sons formed accomplished models for the subjects
to look up to. Here they were subjected to the most vexatious extortions,
and a number of articles were stolen from the baggage. On the 14th they
set out from this place, one of the king's sons on horseback with them as
a protector; but had not got a gun-shot from the town, when a bag was
stolen from one of the asses; Park and Martyn ran after the offender, and
recovered the bag; but before they returned to the coffle, another had
made off with a musket. About two miles from this town some of the asses
fell down. Park rode forward to look out for an easier ascent. As he held
his musket carelessly in his hand, two of the king's sons came up, one of
whom begged Park to give him a pinch of snuff. Park turned round to
assure him he had none; upon which the other stole behind him, snatched
the musket from his hand, and ran off. Park sprang from his saddle with
his sword drawn, and Mr. Anderson got within musket-shot of the thief,
but was unwilling to fire on this scion of royalty. The thief escaped up
the rocks, and when Park returned to his horse, he found that the other
descendant of royalty had stolen his great-coat. Park complained to the
king's son who accompanied them as guide; he told him that the best
course would be for the people to fire upon the delinquents. The natives
seeing their preparations hid themselves behind the rocks, and only
occasionally peeped through the crevices. The sky became overcast with
clouds, and before they were five miles from the town, a heavy tornado
came on. During the rain, another of the royal family ran off with a
musket and a pair of pistols, which a soldier had laid down while
reloading his ass. As they halted for a little, the natives nearly drove
off four of the asses. At length Park gave the soldiers directions to
shoot every one who came near the baggage, and they cleared the difficult
passes of the rocks by sunset, without sustaining any farther loss.
During the 18th a great number of articles, and one of the asses, were
stolen from the sick soldiers, who had scarcely strength to defend
themselves; and one of the party not having come up, Park supposed, with
too much probability, that he had been stripped and murdered. During that
and the following day they had three tornados. So many of the beasts of
burden had been stolen, that the men were obliged to carry part of the
loads. Park himself put a knapsack on his back, and his horse had a heavy
load of articles to bear.

They found great difficulty in crossing the banks of the Ba-Woolima, a
narrow, rapid, and deep river, which was then much swollen by the rains,
They first endeavoured to throw across trunks of trees, but these were
carried away by the stream. They next attempted a raft; but after the
logs had been cut, the sick people were not able to drag them to the
water side. But the negroes who were with them constructed a bridge in
the most ingenious manner. It was formed of two ranges of a number of
upright forked sticks, of sufficient length. Across each of the ranges of
forks were placed two trees tied together. These beams were then
connected with cross sticks. To prevent this structure from being carried
away by the current, two large trees, fastened together, were fixed to
both banks, their roots being tied with ropes to the trees growing there;
they were allowed to sink in the water, so that the current could not
bear away the forks whose ends sloped down the stream, and the current
itself kept in their places those whose roots slanted up the stream. Here
another of the party died of fever.

On the 22d they came to Bangassi, a large fortified town; where the king
gave them a bullock and two calabashes of sweet milk, receiving in return
a number of presents. Nevertheless, he seemed somewhat suspicious, and
questioned Park closely concerning the object of his journey. On parting,
he offered Park the protection of his son as far as Sego, whither he
intended to proceed in a few days; but Park was too anxious to reach the
Niger, to submit to any delay. The health of the soldiers became still
worse, one died, and another was left behind at Bangassi. They had not
gone far from the town when four men lay down, and declared themselves
unable to proceed. Park himself felt very sick and faint; but his spirits
were revived, and he almost felt a return of strength, when, upon
ascending an eminence, he saw some distant mountains to the southeast.
"The certainty that the Niger washed the southern base of these
mountains, made him forget his fever; and he thought of nothing but how
to climb their blue summits."

On the 27th, July, they reached Nummasoolo, a large ruined town, which
had been destroyed by war. They had scarcely time to pitch the tent
before the rain came upon them in torrents, and threatened to destroy the
merchandise: two days were spent in drying it. Two more of the men died,
and one was left behind at this place, concerning whom there is the
following entry in Park's journal:--"Was under the necessity of leaving
here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted
much leaving this man; he had naturally a cheerful disposition, and he
used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our dear
native land." Their route now lay through ruined towns and villages. The
last of the forty asses they had brought from St. Jago perished of
fatigue. On the 9th August they had to pass a rapid stream, and a number
of their beasts of burden were nearly drowned. Both Mr. Scott and
Lieutenant Martyn were suffering from fever; and Park's brother-in-law,
Mr. Anderson, was found lying under a bush, seemingly in a dying state.
Park lifted him up, carried him on his back across a stream which came up
to his middle, then placed him on his own horse, and again proceeded to
help in carrying over the loads. He crossed the stream sixteen times;
then loaded his ass, walked on foot to the next village, killing the
horse on which Anderson was, and driving the ass before him. In the two
last marches they had lost four men; and on the 12th none of the
Europeans were able to lift a load. As they went on, Park led Mr.
Anderson's horse by the bridle, to give him more ease. They passed an ass
deserted by the driver, who was never more heard of. A sick man, who had
been mounted on Park's horse, also lay on the ground. About twelve,
Anderson's strength seemed quite exhausted, and Park laid him under a
bush, and sat down near him. Two hours after he again made an effort to
proceed, but was compelled to desist. Park allowed the horse to graze,
and sat down beside his dying friend. About five o'clock Anderson faintly
intimated his desire of being mounted, and Park led forward the horse as
quickly as possible, in the hope of reaching Koomikoomi before night.
They had only got on about a mile when they heard a noise like the
barking of a huge mastiff, ending in a prolonged hiss like that of an
angry cat. Park thought at first that it was a large monkey, and observed
to Anderson, "what a bouncing fellow that must be," when another bark was
heard nearer, and then one close at hand accompanied with a growl.
Immediately they saw three large lions all abreast, bounding over the
long grass towards them. Park was apprehensive lest, if he allowed them
to come too near, and his piece should miss fire, the lions would spring
upon them. He therefore let go the bridle, and walked forward to meet
them. As soon as he came within long shot he fired at the centre one, but
did not seem to hit him; the lions halted, looked at each other, then
bounded away a few paces, and one of them again stopped and looked at
Park, who was busily loading his piece; at length, to his great joy, the
last of them slowly marched off among the bushes. About half a mile
farther on, another bark and growl proceeded from the bushes, quite close
to them. This was probably one of the lions who had continued to track
them; and Park, fearing that they would follow him till dark, when they
would have too many opportunities for springing secretly upon them, took
Anderson's call, and made as load a whistling and noise as he could.
Amidst the gullies, Park, after it became dark, could no longer
distinguish the footprints of the asses which marked the way along which,
the party had proceeded; and as the road became steep and dangerous, he
resolved to halt till morning. A fire was lighted, Anderson wrapt in his
cloak, while Park watched all night, in case the lions, whom he knew to
abound in the neighbourhood, should attack them.

On the 13th August they arrived at the village of Doombila, where Park
was delighted to meet Karfa Taura, the kind friend to whom, in his former
journey, he owed so many obligations. This worthy person had undertaken a
six days journey to Bambakoo, on hearing that a person named Park, who
spoke the Mandingo language, was leading a party of white men through the
country; and he brought with him three slaves to aid them in getting
forward. But not finding Park there, he had proceeded other two days
journey to meet him. "He instantly recognised me," says Park, "and you
may judge of the pleasure I felt on seeing my old benefactor."

Mr. Scott had died of fever at Koomikoomi, and Mr. Anderson was only
brought on by being carried in a litter by negroes, whom Park had hired
for that purpose. Disease had done its work fearfully among the little
band that had departed high in hope of tracing out the mysterious Niger;
and it seemed as if the few who had survived the toilsome and dangerous
journey would soon follow their comrades. There were to be other victims
yet.

After having travelled twenty miles along a miserable road, they arrived
at Touiba on the 18th. Rain fell during the whole night, and as the
soldiers went to the village for shelter, Park had to keep watch alone.
The district abounded in corn, which rendered the task very troublesome,
for there is a law in Africa, that if an ass break a single stem of corn,
the proprietor may seize the animal, and if the owner refuse to indemnify
him for the loss, he may retain the ass, and though he cannot be sold or
employed, he may be killed and eaten--the people of Bambarra reckoning
ass-flesh a delightful repast.

On the 19th August, they kept ascending the mountains to the south of
Touiba till three o'clock, when, having gained the summit of the ridge
which separates the Niger from the remote branches of the Senegal, Park
went on a little before, and, coming to the brow of the hill, he once
more saw the Niger, rolling its immense stream along the plain. At
half-past six o'clock that evening, they arrived at Bambakoo, where the
river becomes navigable, and pitched their tents under a tree near the
town.




CHAPTER XXX.

_Park on the Niger--His Death and Character_.


Park now reached the Niger, the point at which he had too fondly hoped
that all his difficulties would be at an end. He had conceived that, once
afloat upon its waters, he would be swiftly borne onwards towards the
termination of its course. But disaster had attended the enterprise
almost from its commencement; unexpected and formidable difficulties had
caused these flattering prospects to vanish as a dream. On the 29th May,
he had expected to reach the Niger in a month; there had since then
passed away eleven weeks of unparalleled hardship; the deadly influence
of climate, aggravated by the horrors of the rainy season, had caused the
greater part of his little band to fall, one after another, around him;
the few survivors were so wasted by sickness that, instead of proving an
assistance, they only added to his cares and anxieties. No wonder, then,
that the joy inspired by the sight of the Niger was transient, and that
fearful forebodings hanging upon his spirit should make him thus
write:--"After the fatiguing march, which we had experienced, the sight
of this river was no doubt pleasant, as it promised an end to, or, at
least, an alleviation of our toils. But, when I reflected, that
three-fourths of the soldiers had died on the march, and that, in
addition to our weakly state, we had no carpenters to build the boats in
which we proposed to prosecute our discoveries, the prospect appeared
somewhat gloomy." On the 22d August, Park hired a canoe to convey the
baggage to Maraboo, and himself embarked in it, along with Anderson.
Several rapids intervened, but the river was navigable over them, being
much swollen, by the rains. The Niger was here an English mile in
breadth, and at the rapids was spread to nearly two miles. They were
carried along, at the rate of five miles an hour, and on the following
day, arrived in safety at Maraboo. Here Isaaco was paid the stipulated
quantity of goods for having acted as guide, to which Park made an
additional present, also promising to give him all the asses and horses
when once a satisfactory agreement had been come to with the king of
Bambarra. Meantime, Isaaco was sent forward to Sego, to ask permission to
pass through the king's territories, and to build a boat for sailing down
the Niger. Some days elapsed before any answer was received; a report was
even current, that the king had with his own hand killed Isaaco, and had
avowed his resolution that every white man who should come within his
reach should share the same fate. During this period, Park was seized
with a severe attack of dysentery, which had carried off so many of his
party; he cured himself, however, by taking a powerful course of mercury.
His apprehensions were relieved by the arrival of the king's "singing
man," who is almost a sort of privy-councillor at the African courts,
declaring Mansong's high satisfaction with the presents conveyed to him
by Park's envoy, and inviting Park to Sego, to deliver them to his
majesty in person. Park was eager to depart, but the "singing man" had
contracted a strong liking to the beef and beer which Dooty Sokee ordered
to be liberally supplied to him, and six days elapsed before he would
consent to move. At last they embarked, and Park thus describes their
voyage:--"Nothing can be more beautiful than the views of this immense
river; sometimes as smooth as a mirror, at other times ruffled with a
gentle breeze, but at all times sweeping us along at the rate of six or
seven miles per hour." After passing Koolikorro and Yamina, Park arrived
at Samee, where he met with Isaaco, who told him that Mansong seemed
favourably disposed towards the expedition, but that, whenever he
attempted to enter into particulars, the king began to construct squares
and triangles with his fingers upon the sand, and during the whole time
that he spoke, seemed unwilling to withdraw his mind from these fits of
geometrical study, and showed no anxiety to have a personal interview
with the travellers.

A few days afterwards, Park was visited by Modibinnie, the prime
minister, and four other officers of the court. It was intimated to him,
that Mansong had instructed him to inquire of Park the motives which had
brought him to Bambarra, and directed him to give an explanation of his
object next morning. Park addressed a judicious speech to them in the
Bambarran language, which seemed to produce the desired effect. He
alluded to the generous treatment he had received from Mansong in his
former journey through Bambarra, and then said, "You all know that the
white people are a trading people, and that all the articles of value
which the Moors and the people of Jinni bring to Sego are made by us. If
you speak of a good _gun_; who made it? the _white people_. We sell them
to the Moors; the Moors bring them to Tombuctoo, where they sell them at
a _higher rate_. The people of Tombuctoo sell them to the people of Jinni
at a still higher price, and the people of Jinni sell them to you. Now,
the king of the white people wishes to find out a way by which we may
bring our merchandise to you, and sell every thing at a much cheaper rate
than you now have them. For this purpose, if Mansong will permit me to
pass, I purpose sailing down the Joliba, to the place where it mixes with
the salt water; and if I find no rocks or danger in the way, the white
men's small vessels will come up and trade at Sego, if Mansong wishes
it." He concluded by advising them to keep this secret from the Moors,
who would certainly murder him were they aware of his purpose. Upon this,
Modibinnie replied, "We have heard what you have said. Your journey is a
good one, and may God prosper you in it. Mansong will protect you."
Park's presents were viewed with high admiration, particularly a
silver-plated tureen, and two double-barrelled guns; Modibinnie
declaring, that "the present was great, and worthy of Mansong." A wish
being also expressed to examine the remainder of his stores, Park was
reluctantly obliged to exhibit them. Two days afterwards, they returned
with a favourable message from Mansong, who promised them protection in
travelling through his dominions, and also gave them permission to build
a boat at Samee, Sego, Sansanding, or Jinni. Park chose Sansanding, as
being the most retired; and Mansong having asked what suitable return he
could make for such a handsome present, Park intimated that two large
canoes would answer his purpose best.

In the voyage to Sansanding they suffered much from the intense heat; and
on the 2d October, two of the soldiers died. Sansanding is a place
carrying on a considerable traffic, and is said to contain eleven
thousand inhabitants. It has a large market-place, in the form of a
square, where the articles for sale are arranged on stalls, shaded by
mats from the heat of the sun. In each stall only a single article is
sold, the chief being beef, beer, beads, indigo, cloth, elephants teeth,
and slaves; besides which one side of the square is entirely devoted to
salt the staple commodity of the place. The value of the articles is paid
in cowries, the chief currency of central Africa.

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