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The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques,

R >> Richard Hakluyt >> The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques,




[Sidenote: Will. de Rubricis describeth this riuer of Ardok, cap. 4.] Note
that in times past there did fal into this gulf the great river Oxus, which
hath his springs in the mountains of Paraponisus in India, and now commeth
not so far, but falleth into another riuer called Ardock, which runneth
toward the North, and consumeth himself in the ground passing vnder ground
aboue 500. miles, and then issueth out againe and falleth into the lake of
Kithay. [Footnote: Oxus, the Jihun of the Arab, the Amu-darya of the
Persians, and the Vak-shu of the Hindus, is a river of Central Asia, in
Turkestan, draining the Great Pamir through two head streams--the Panja or
southern, rising in Lake Victoria, 13,900 feet above the sea-level, and the
Ak-su or Murghah, or northern, said to flow from Lake Barkal Yasin, 13,000
feet above the sea-level, and receiving the outflow of Lake Kara-kul above
the junction. The united stream flows westwards towards Balkh, before
reaching which it gradually trends to the northwest until, after a course
of about 1300 miles, it reaches the south coast of the Aral Sea. In parts
the stream has a breadth of 800 yards, with a depth of 20 feet, and a very
rapid current; but the vast quantity of sedimentary matter which it brings
down to the month, forming shifting sands and banks, renders it difficult
to navigate. A great portion of the volume of the stream is absorbed in the
irrigation of the Khivan Oasis. The tendency of the Oxus, like that of the
great Siberian rivers, is to press continually on its right or east bank,
and twice within historic times it has oscillated between the Caspian and
Aral Seas. In the fourteenth century it is supposed to have entered the
Caspian by the Uzboi channel, near Mikhailovsk. It was proposed at one time
to attempt to reopen this bed, but the scheme has been abandoned in favour
of the steppe river, Chagan. Herodotus seems to refer to the Oxus under the
name of Araxes, but his description is confused, and many of his
commentators suppose that the Araxes of Herodotus is the river of the same
name in Armenia; while others suppose that it is either the Volga or the
Jaxartes. Strabo says that the Oxus rose in the Indian mountains and flowed
into the Caspian, which is also the opinion of Mela and Ptolemy. Pliny
makes it rise in a lake called Oxus, and the truth of his statement is now
confirmed.]

[Sidenote: Sellizure, or Shayzure.] We hauing refreshed our selues at the
foresaide gulfe, departed thence the 4. day of October, and the seuenth day
arriued at a castle called Sellizure, where the king called Azim Can,
remained with 3. other of his brethren, and the 9. day I was commaunded to
come before his presence, to whom I deliuered the Emporors letters of
Russia: and I also gaue him a present of a ninth, who entertained me very
well, and caused me to eate in his presence as his brethren did, feasting
me with flesh of a wilde horse, and mares milk without bread. [Sidenote:
Letters of safteconduct] And the next day he sent for me again, and asked
of me diuers questions, as wel touching the affaires of the Emperour of
Russia, as of our countrey and lawes, to which I answered as I thought
good: so that at my departure he gaue me his letters of safe conduct.

This Castle of Sellizure is situated vpon an high hill, where the King
called the Can lyeth, whose palace is built of earth very basely, and not
strong: the people are but poore, and haue litle trade of merchandise among
them. The South part of this Castle is lowe lande, but very fruitfull,
where grow many good fruites, among which there is one called a Dynie, of a
great bignesse and full of moysture, which the people do eate after meate
in steade of drinke. Also there growes another fruite called a Carbuse of
the bignesse of a great cucumber, yellow and sweete as sugar: also a
certaine corne called Iegur, whose stalke is much like a sugar cane, and as
high, and the graine like rice, which groweth at the toppe of the cane like
a cluster of grapes; the water that serueth all that countrey is drawen by
ditches out of the riuer Oxus, vnto the great destruction of the said
riuer, for which cause it falleth not into the Caspian sea as it hath done
in times past, and in short time all that land is like to be destroied, and
to become a wildernes for want of water, when the riuer of Oxus shal faile.

[Sidenote: Vrgence.] The 14. day of the moneth we departed from this Castle
of Sellizure, and the 16. of the same we arriued at a citie called Vrgence,
where we paid custome as wel for our own heads, as for our camels and
horses. And hauing there soiourned one moneth, attending the time of our
further trauaile, the king of that countrey called Aly Soltan, brother to
the forenamed Azym Can, returned from a towne called Corasan, within the
borders of Persia, which he lately had conquered from the Persians, with
whom he and the rest of the kings of Tartaria haue continuall warres.
Before this king also I was commanded to come, to whom I likewise presented
the Emperors letters of Russia, and he intertained me wel, and demanded of
me diuers questions, and at my departure gaue me his letters of safe
conduct.

This city or towne of Vrgence standeth in a plaine ground, with walles of
the earth, by estimation 4. miles about it. The buildings within it are
also of earth, but ruined and out of good order: it hath one long street
that is couered aboue, which is the place of their market. It hath bene
wonne and lost 4. times within 7. yeeres by ciuill warres, by meanes
whereof there are but few merchants in it, and they very poore, and in all
that towne I could not sell about 4. kerseis. The chiefest commodities
there sold are such wares as come from Boghar, and out of Persia, but in
most smal quantity not worth the writing. [Sidenote: The countrey of
Turkeman.] All the land from the Caspian sea to this Citie of Vrgence is
called the land of Turkeman, and is subiect to the said Azim Can, and his
brethren which be fiue in number, and one of them hath the name of the
chiefe king called Can, but he is little obeyed sauing in his owne
Dominion, and where he dwelleth: for euery one will be King of his owne
portion, and one brother seeketh alwayes to destroy another, hauing no
natural loue among them, by reason that they are begotten of diuers women,
and commonly they are the children of slaues, either Christians or
Gentiles, which the father doeth keepe as concubines, and euery Can or
Sultan hath at least 4. or 5. wiues, besides young maidens and boyes,
liuing most viciously: and when there are warres betwixt these brethren,
(as they are seldome without) he that is ouercome if he be not slaine,
flieth to the field with such companie of men as will followe him, and
there liueth in the wildemesse resorting to watering places, and so robbeth
and spoileth as many Carauans of Marchants and others as they be able to
ouercome, continuing in this sort his wicked life, vntil such time as he
may get power and aide to inuade some of his brethren againe. From the
Caspian sea vnto the Castle of Sellizure aforesaid, and all the Countreis
about the said Sea, the people liue without towne or habitation in the
wilde fields, remouing from one place to another in great companies with
their cattel, whereof they haue great store, as camels, horses, and sheepe
both tame and wilde. Their sheepe are of great stature with great buttocks,
weighing 60. or 80. pound in weight. There are many wild horses which the
Tartars doe many times kil with their hawkes, and that in this order. The
hawkes are lured to sease vpon the beasts neckes or heads, which with
chafing of themselues and sore beating of the hawkes are tired: then the
hunter following his game doeth slay the horse with his arrow or sword. In
all this lande there groweth no grasse, but a certaine brush or heath,
whereon the cattell feeding become very fat.

The Tartars neuer ride without their bow, arrowes, and sword, although it
be on hawking, or at any other pleasure, and they are good archers both on
horsebacke, and on foote also. These people haue not the vse of golde,
siluer, or any other coyne, but when they lacke apparell or other
necessaries, they barter their cattell for the same. Bread they haue none,
for they neither till nor sow: they be great deuourers of flesh, which they
cut in smal pieces, and eat it by handfuls most greedily, and especially
the horseflesh. Their chiefest drink is mares milke sowred, as I haue said
before of the Nagayans, and they wilbe drunk with the same. They haue no
riuers nor places of water in this countrey, vntil you come to the foresaid
gulf, distant from the place of our landing 20. dayes iourney, except it be
in wels, the water whereof is saltish, and yet distant the one from the
other two daies iourney and more. They eate their meate vpon the ground,
sitting with their legs double vnder them, and so also when they pray. Art
or science they haue none, but liue most idlely, sitting round in great
companies in the fields, deuising, and talking most vainely.

[Sidenote: The riuer of Ardock falleth into the lake of Kitay.] The 26. day
of Nouember, we departed from the towne of Vrgence, and hauing trauailed by
the riuer Oxus, 100 miles, we passed ouer another great riuer called
Ardock, where we paid a certaine pety custome. This riuer Ardock is great,
and very swift, falling out of the foresaid Oxus and passing about 1000.
mile to the Northward, it then consumeth it selfe in the ground, and
passing vnder the same about 500. mile, issueth out againe, and falleth
into the lake of Kitay, as I haue before declared.

[Sidenote: The castle of Kait.] The 7. of December following, we arriued at
a Castle called Kait, subiect to a Soltan called Saramet Soltan, who meant
to haue robbed all the Christians in the Carauan, had it not bene for feare
of his brother the king of Vrgence, as we were informed by one of his
chiefest counsellers, who willed vs to make him a present, which he tooke,
and deliuered: besides, we paid at the said castle for custome, of euery
camel one red hide of Russia, besides pety gifts to his officers.

Thus proceeding in our iourney, the tenth day at night being at rest, and
our watch set, there came vnto vs foure horsemen, which wee tooke as spies,
from whom wee tooke their weapons and bound them, and hauing well examined
them, they confessed that they had seene the tract of many horsemen, and no
footing of camels, and gaue vs to vnderstand, that there were rouers and
theeues abroade: for there trauaile few people that are true and peaceable
in that Countrey, but in companie of Carauan, where there be many camels:
and horsefeeting new without camels were to be doubted. Whereupon we
consulted and determined amongst our selues, and sent a poste to the said
Soltan of Kayte, who immediatly came himselfe with 300. men, and mette
these foure suspected men which we sent vnto him, and examined them so
streightly, and threatned them in such sort, that they confessed, there was
a banished Prince with 40. men 3. daies iourney forward, who lay in wait to
destroy vs, if he could, and that they themselues were of his companie.

The Soltan therefore vnderstanding, that the theeues were not many,
appointed vs 80. men well armed with a Captaine to goe with vs, and conduct
vs in our way. And the Soltan himselfe returned backe againe, taking the
foure theeues with him. These souldiers trauailed with vs two dayes,
consuming much of our victuals. And the 3. day in the morning very earely
they set out before our Carauan, and hauing ranged the wildernes for the
space of foure houres, they mette vs, comming towards vs as fast as their
horse could runne, and declared that they had founde the tract of horses
not farre from vs, perceiuing well that we shoulde meete with enemies, and
therefore willed vs to appoint our selues for them, and asked vs what we
would giue them to conduct vs further, or else they would returne. To whom
we offered as we thought good, but they refused our offer, and would haue
more; and so we not agreeing they departed from vs, and went back to their
Soltan, who (as wee coniectured) was priuie to the conspiracie. [Sidenote:
Diuination by sorcerie] But they being gone, certaine Tartars of our
companie called holy men, (because they had bene at Mecha) caused the whole
Carauan to stay, and would make their prayers, and deuine how wee should
prosper in our iourney and whether we should meet with any ill company or
no? To which, our whole Carauan did agree. And they tooke certaine sheepe
and killed them, and tooke the blade bones of the same, and first sodde
them and then burnt them, and tooke of the blood of the said sheepe, and
mingled it with the powder of the saide bones, and wrote certaine
Characters with the saide blood, vsing many other ceremonies and wordes,
and by the same deuined and found, that wee shoulde meete with enemies and
theeues (to our great trouble) but should ouercome them, to which sorcerie,
I and my companie gaue no credit, but we found it true: for within 3.
houres after that the souldiers departed from vs, which was the 15. day of
December, in the morning, we escried farre off diuers horsemen which made
towards vs, and we (perceiuing them to be rouers) gathered ourselues
together, being 40. of vs wel appointed, and able to fight, and we made our
prayers together euery one after his lawe; professing to liue and die one
with another, and so prepared our selues. When the theeues were nigh vnto
vs, we perceiued them to be in number 37. men well armed, and appointed
with bowes, arrowes and swords, and the captaine a prince banished from his
Countrey. They willed vs to yeelde our selues, or els to be slaine, but wee
defied them, wherewith they shotte at vs all at once, and wee at them very
hotly, and so continued our fight from morning vntil two houres within
night, diuers men, horses and camels being wounded and slaine on both
partes: [Sidenote: Handguns very profitable.] and had it not bene for 4.
handgunnes which I and my companie had and vsed, we had bene ouercome and
destroyed: for the theeues were better armed, and were also better archers
than we: But after wee had slaine diuers of their men and horses with our
gunnes, they durst not approch so nigh, which caused them to come to a
truce with vs vntill the next morning, which we accepted, and encamped our
selues vpon a hill, and made the fashion of a Castle, walling it about with
packes of wares, and laide our horses and camels within the same to saue
them from the shotte of arrowes: and the theeues also incamped within an
arrowe shotte of vs, but they were betwixt vs and the water, which was to
our great discomfort, because neither we nor our camels had drunke in 2.
dayes before.

Thus keeping good watch, when halfe the night was spent, the Prince of the
theeues sent a messenger halfe way vnto vs, requiring to talke with our
Captaine, in their tongue, the Carauan Basha, who answered the messenger, I
will not depart from my companie to goe into the halfe way to talke with
thee: but if that thy Prince with all his companie will sweare by our Lawe
to keepe the truce, then will I send a man to talke with thee, or els not.
Which the Prince vnderstanding as well himselfe as his company, swore so
loude that we might all heare. And then we sent one of our company (reputed
a holy man) to talke with the same messenger. [Sidenote: Bussarmans.
Caphar.] The message was pronounced aloude in this order, our Prince
demaundeth of the Carauan Basha, and of all you that be Bussarmans, (that
is to say circumcised) not desiring your bloods, that you deliuer into his
hands as many Caphars, that is unbeleeuers (meaning vs the Christians) as
are among you with their goods, and in so doing, hee will suffer you to
depart with your goods in quietnesse, and on the contrary, you shall be
handled with no lesse cruelty then the Caphars, if hee ouercome you, as he
doubteth not. To the which our Carauan Basha answered, that he had no
Christians in his company, nor other strangers, but two Turkes which were
of their Law, and although hee had, hee would rather die then deliuer them,
and that we were not afraide of his threatnings, and that should he know
when day appeared. And so passing in talke, the theeues (contrary to their
othe) caried our holy man away to their Prince, crying with a lowde voyce
in token of victory, Ollo, ollo. Wherewith we were much discomforted,
fearing that that holy man would betray vs: but be being cruelly handled
and much examined, would not to death confesse anything which was to vs
preiudliciall, neither touching vs, nor yet what men they had slaine and
wounded of ours the day before. When the night was spent, in the morning we
prepared our selues to battel againe: which the theeues perceiuing,
required to fall to agreement and asked much of vs: And to be briefe, the
most part of our companie being loth to go to battel againe, and hauing
litle to loose, and safeconduct to passe, we were compelled to agree, and
to giue the theeues 20 ninths (that is to say) 20 times 9 seuerall things,
and a camell to cary away the same, which being receiued, the theeues
departed into the wildernes to their old habitation, and we went on our way
forward. [Sidenote: The river of Oxus.] And that night came to the riuer
Oxus, where we refreshed our selues, hauing bene 3. dayes without water and
drinke, and tarried there all the next day, making mery with our slaine
horses and camels, and then departed from that place, [Sidenote: A
wildernes of sande.] and for feare of meeting with the said theeues againe
or such like, we left the high way which went along, the said riuer, and
passed through a wildernes of sand, and traulled 4 dayes in the same before
we came to water: and then came to a wel, the water being very brackish,
and we then as before were in neede of water, and of other victuals, being
forced to kill our horses and camels to eate.

In this wildernes also we had almost fallen into the hands of theeues: for
one night being at rest, there came certaine scouts, and caried away
certaine of our men which lay a litle separated from the Carauan, wherewith
there was a great shoute and crie, and we immedately laded our camels, and
departed being about midnight and very darke, and droue sore till we came
to the riuer Oxus againe, and then we feared nothing being walled with the
said riuer: and whether it was for that we had gotten the water, or for
that the same theeues were far from vs when the scouts discouered vs, we
knowe not, but we escaped that danger.

[Sidenote: Boghar a citie of Bactria.] So vpon the 23 day of December we
arriued at the citie of Boghar in the lande of Bactria. This Boghar is
situated in the lowest part of all the land, walled about with a high wall
of earth, with diuers gates into the same: it is diuided into 3 partitions,
whereof two parts are the kings, and the 3 part is for Marchants and
markets, and euery science hath their dwelling and market by themselues.
The Citie is very great, and the houses for the most part of earth, but
there are also many houses, temples and monuments of stone sumptuously
builded, and gilt, and especially bathstoues so artificially built, that
the like thereof is not in the world: the maner whereof is too long to
rehearse. [Sidenote: A strange worme in mens legs.] There is a little riuer
running through the middest of the said Citie, but the water there of is
most vnholsome, for it breedeth sometimes in men that drinke thereof, and
especially in them that be not there borne, a worme of an ell long, which
lyeth commonly in the legge betwixt the flesh and the skinne, and is pluckt
out about the ancle with great art and cunning, the Surgeons being much
practised therein, and if shee breaks in plucking out, the partie dieth,
and euery day she commeth out about an inch, which is rolled vp, and so
worketh till she be all out. And yet it is there forbidden to drinke any
other thing then water, and mares milke, and whosoeuer is found to breake
that law is whipped and beaten most cruelly through the open markets, and
there are officers appointed for the same, who haue authoritie to goe into
any mans house, to search if he haue either Aquauitae, wine, or brage, and
finding the same, doe breake the vessels, spoile the drinke, and punish the
masters of the house most cruelly, yea, and many times if they perceiue but
by the breath of a man that he hath drunke, without further examination he
shall not escape their hands.

There is a Metropolitane in this Boghar, who causeth this to bee so
streightly kept: and he is more obeyed then the king, and will depose the
king, and place another at his will and pleasure, as he did by this king
that raigned at our being there, and his predecessour, by the meanes of the
said Metropolitan: for he betrayed him, and in the night slewe him in his
chamber, who was a Prince who loued all Christians well.

This Countrey of Boghar was sometime subiect to the Persians, and do now
speake the Persian tongue, but yet now it is a kingdome of it selfe, and
hath most cruell warres continually with the sayd Persians about their
religion, although they be all Mahometists. One occasion of their wars is,
for that the Persians will not cut the haire of their vpper lips, as the
Bogharians and all other Tartars doe, which they accompt great sinne, and
cal them Caphars, that is Vnbeleeuers, as they doe the Christians.

[Sidenote: The coyne of Boghar.] The king of Boghar hath no great power or
riches, his reuenues are but small, and he is most meinteined by the Citie:
for he taketh the tenth penie of all things that are there solde, as well
by the craftsmen as by the marchants, to the great impouerishment of the
people, whom he keepeth in great subiection, and when he lacketh money, he
sendeth his officers to the shops of the sayd Marchants to take their wares
to pay his debts, and will haue credit of force, as the like he did to pay
me certaine money that he owed me for 19 pieces of Kersey. Their money is
siluer and copper, for gold there is none current: they haue but one piece
of siluer, and that is worth 12. pence English, and the copper money are
called Pooles, and 120 of them goeth the value of the said 12. pence, and
is more common paiment then the siluer, which the king causeth to rise and
fall to his most aduantage euery other moneth, and sometimes twise a
moneth, not caring to oppresse his people, for that he loketh not to reigne
aboue 2 or 3 yeres before he be either slaine, or driuen away, to the great
destruction of the countrey and merchants.

The 26 day of the moneth I was commanded to come before the said king, to
whom I presented the Emperour of Russia his letters, who interteined vs
most gently, and caused vs to eate in his presence, and diuers times he
sent for me, and deuised with me familiarly in his secret chamber, as well
of the power of the Emperour, and the great Turke as also of our countries,
lawes, and religion, and caused vs to shoote in handguns before him, and
did himselfe practise the vse thereof. But after all this great
intertainement before my departure he shewed himselfe a very Tartar: for he
went to the wars owing me money, and saw me not payd before his departure.
And although indeede he gaue order for the same, yet was I verie ill
satisfied, and forced to rebate part, and to take wares as payment for the
rest contrary to my expectation: but of a begger better paiment I could not
haue, and glad I was so to be paid and dispatched.

But yet I must needs praise and commend this barbarous king who immediately
after my arriual at Boghar, hauing vnderstoode our trouble with the
theeues, sent 100 men well armed, and gaue them great charge not to returne
before they had either slaine or taken the sayd theeues. Who according to
their commission ranged the wildernes in such sort, that they met with the
said company of theeues, and slew part, and part fledde, and foure they
tooke and brought vnto the king, and two of them were sore wounded in our
skirmish with our gunnes: And after the king had sent for me to come to see
them, he caused them all 4 to be hanged at his palace gate, because they
were Gentlemen, to the example of others. And of such goods as were gotten
againe, I had part restored me, and this good iustice I found at his hands.

There is yeerely great resort of Marchants to this Citie of Boghar, which
trauaile in great Carauans from the countries thereabout adioining, as
India, Persia, Balgh, Russia, with diuers others, and in times past from
Cathay, when there was passage: but these Marchants are so beggerly and
poore, and bring so little quantitie of wares, lying two or 3 yeeres to
sell the same, that there is no hope of any good trade there to be had
worthy the following.

The chiefe commodities that are brought thither out of these foresayd
Countreys, are these following.

[Sidenote: Marchandise of India.] The Indians doe bring fine whites, which
the Tartars do all roll about their heads, and al other kinds of whites,
which serue for apparell made of cotton wooll and crasko, but golde,
siluer, precious stones, and spices they bring none. I enquired and
perceiued that all such trade passeth to the Ocean sea, and the vaines
where all such things are gotten are in the subiection of the Portingals.
The Indians carie them from Boghar againe wrought silkes, red hides,
slaues, and horses, with such like, but of Kerseis and other cloth, they
make little accompt. I offered to barter with Marchants of those Countreis,
which came from the furthest parts of India, euen from the countrey of
Bengala, and the riuer Ganges, to giue them Kersies for their commodities,
but they would not barter for such commoditie as cloth.

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