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The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques,

R >> Richard Hakluyt >> The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques,




And if you vnderstand that any commoditie in Russia be profitable for vs to
haue with you in Persia or other places, our minde is that our Agents shall
either prouide it for you, or deliuer you money to make prouision your
selfe. [Sidenote: The maine sea within thirtie days of Colmogro.] And
because the Russes say that in traueiling Eastwardes from Colmogro thirty
or forty dayes iourney, there is the maine sea to be found, we think that
Richard Iohnson might imploy his time that way by land, and to be at Mosco
time enough to goe with you into Persia: for if it be true that he may
trauell to the sea that way, and that he may know how many miles it is
towards the East from Colmogro, it will be a great helpe for vs to finde
out the straight and passage that way, if any be there to be had.


William Gerard.
Thomas Lodge.
William Merike.
Blase Sanders.

Gouernors.

* * * * *

A compendious and briefe declaration of the iourney of M. Anth. Ienkinson,
from the famous citie of London into the land of Persia, passing in this
same iourney thorow Russia, Moscouia, and Mare Caspium, alias Hircanum,
sent and imployed therein by the right worshipfull Societie of the
Merchants Aduenturers, for discouerie of Lands, Islands, &c. Being begun
the fourteenth day of May, Anno 1561, and in the third yere of the reigne
of the Queenes Maiestie that now is: this present declaration being
directed and written to the foresayd Societie.

First imbarking my selfe in a good shippe of yours, named the Swallow, at
Grauesend, hauing a faire and good winde, our anker then weyed, and
committing all to the protection of our God, hauing in our sailing
diuersitie of windes, and thereby forced to direct and obserue sundry
courses (not here rehearsed, because you haue bene thereof heretofore amply
informed) on the fourteenth day of Iuly, the yere aforesayd I arriued the
bay of S. Nicholas in Russia: and the sixe and twentieth day of the same
moneth, after conference then had with your Agents there, concerning your
worships affaires, I departed from thence, passing thorow the countrey of
Vago, and on the eight day of August then following, I came to Vologda,
which is distant from Colmogro, seuen hundred miles, where I remained foure
dayes, attending the arriual of one of your boats, wherein was laden a
chest of iewels with the present, by your worships appointed for the
Emperors Maiesty: [Sidenote: The Queenes letters to the Emperour of
Russia.] which being arriued, and the chest receiued, I therewith departed
toward the city of Mosco, and came thither the twentieth day of the same
moneth, where I immediately caused my comming to be signified vnto the
Secretary of the Imperiall Maiesty, with the Queenes Highnesse letters
address vnto the same his Maiestie, who informed the Emperour thereof. But
his Highnesse hauing great affaires, and being at that present ready to be
married vnto a Ladie of Chircassi, of the Mahometicall law, commanded that
no stranger, Ambassadour, nor other, should come before him for a time with
further streight charge, that during the space of three dayes that the same
solemne feast was celebratine the gates of the citie should be shut, and
that no person, stranger or natiue (certeine of his houshold reserued)
should come out of their said houses during the said triumph, the cause
thereof vnto this day not being knowen.

The sixt of September following, the Emperour made a great feast, whereunto
were called all Ambassadours and strangers being of reputation, and hauing
affaires: amongst whom I was one, but being willed by the Secretary first
to come, and to shew him the Queenes Maiesties letters, I refused so to
doe, saying I would deliuer the same unto the Emperours owne hands: and not
otherwise: which heard the Secretarie answered, that vnlesse he might first
peruse the sayd letters, I should not come into the Emperors presence, so
that I was not at the feast. Neuerthelesse, I was aduertised by a noble man
that I was inquired for by the Emperours Maiestie, although the cause of my
absence was to his Maiestie vnknowen. The next day following, I caused a
supplication to be made, and presented it to his Highnesse owne hands, and
thereby declared the cause of my comming, signified by the Queenes
Maiesties letters, and the answere of his sayd Secretary, most humbly
beseeching his Grace that he would receiue and accept the same her
Highnesse letters, with such honour and friendship, as his letters sent by
Osep Napea were receiued by the hands of our late Souereigne Lady Queene
Mary, or els that it would please his Highnes to dismisse me, saying that I
would not deliuer the said letters but vnto his owne hands, for that it is
so vsed in our countrey. Thus the matter being pondered, and the effect of
my supplication well digested, I was foorthwith commaunded to come with the
said letters before his Maiestie, and so deliuered the same into his owne
hands (with such presents as by you were appointed) according to my
request, which were gratefully accepted, and the same day I dined in his
Grace's presence, with great entertainment. [Sidenote: Request to passe
into Persia thorow Moscovie] Shortly after, I desired to know whether I
should be licenced to passe thorow his Highnesse dominions into the land of
Persia, according to the Queenes Maiesties request: hereunto it was
answered, that I should not passe thither, for that his Maiestie meant to
send an armie of men that way into the land of Chircassi, whereby my
iourney should be both dangerous and troublesome, and that if I should
perish therein, it would be much to his Graces dishonour, but he doubted
other matters, although they were not expressed. Thus hauing received his
answere, neither to my expectation, nor yet contentation, and there
remaining a good part of the yere, hauing in that time solde the most part
of your kerses and other wares appointed for Persia, when the time of the
yeere required to returne for England, I desired passport, and post horses
for money, which was granted, [Sidenote: Osep Napea, Ambassadour from the
Emperor of Russia to Queen Mary.] but hauing received my passport, ready to
depart, there came unto our house there Osep Napea, who perswaded me that I
should not depart that day, saying that the Emperor was not truely
informed, imputing great fault to the frowardnesse of the Secretary, who
was not my friend: before whom comming againe the next day, and finding the
same Secretary and Osep Napea together, after many allegations and
obiections of things, and perceiuing that I would depart, I was willed to
remaine vntill the Emperours Maiestie were spoken with againe touching my
passage: wherewith I was content, and within three dayes after sending for
me, he declared that the Emperours pleasure was, that I should not onely
passe thorow his dominions into Persia, but also haue his Graces letters of
commendations to forren princes, with certaine his affaires committed to my
charge, too long here to rehearse: [Sidenote: An Ambassador of Persia.]
whereupon I appointed my selfe for the voyage, and the 15 day of March, the
yeere aforesaid, I dined againe in his Maiesties presence in company of an
Ambassadour of Persia and others, and receiuing a cup of drinke at his
Maiesties hands, I tooke my leaue of his Highnesse, who did not only giue
me letters, as aforesayd, but also committed matter of importance and
charge vnto me, to be done when I should arrive in those countreys whither
I intended to go, [Sidenote: Astracan.] and hauing all things in readinesse
for the same voyage, I departed from the city of Mosco the 27 day of April
1561, downe by the great riuer of Volga, in company of the said Ambassadour
of Persia, with whom I had great friendship and conference all the way
downe the same riuer vnto Astracan, where we arriued all in health the 10
day of Iune.

And as touching the situations of the cities, townes, castles and
countreys, aswell of Mahometans as also of Gentils adioyning to the same,
whereby I passed from Mosco vnto Astracan, I omit in this breuiat to
rehearse, for that I heretofore haue declared the same most amply vnto you
in my voyage to Boghar. [Sidenote: M. Ienkinsons voyage to Boghar.] Thus
being arriued at Astracan, as is aforesayd, I repaired vnto the captaine
there, vnto whom I was commended from the Emperours Maiesty, with great
charge that he not only should ayd and succor me with all things needfull
during my abode there, but also to safeconduct me with 50 gunners well
appointed in two stroogs or brigantines into the Caspian sea, vntill I had
passed certaine dangerous places which pirats and rouers accustome to
haunt, and hauing prepared my barke for the sea, the Ambassador of Persia
being before departed in a barke of his owne the 15 day of Iuly, the yeere
aforesayd, I and my company tooke our voyage from the sayd Astracan,
[Sidenote: He passeth the Caspian Sea.] and the next day at a West sunne,
passed the mouth of the said riuer being twenty miles distant, lying next
Southeast. The 18 at a Southwest Sunne, we passed by three Islands being
distant nine miles from the said mouth of Volga, and Southsouthwest from
thence, sailing Southsouthwest the next day, at a West and by North sun we
fel with the land called Challica Ostriua, being foure round Islands
together, distant from the said three Islands forty miles. [Sidenote: The
countrey of Tumen.] From thence sailing the said course the next day, we
had sight of a land called Tuke, in the countrey of Tumen, where pirats and
rouers do vse: for feare of whom we haled off into the sea due East forty
miles, and fell vpon shallowes out of the sight of land, and there were
like to haue perished, escaping most hardly: [Sidenote: The Island of
Chatelet.] then the 22 day we had sight of a goodly Island called Chatalet,
distant from the said Challica Ostriua an hundred miles, the wind being
contrary, and a stiffe gale, we were not able to seize it: but were forced
to come to an anker to the leeward of the same sixe miles off in three or
foure fathom water, being distant from the maine land to the Westward of
vs, which was called Skafcayl or Connyk a countrey of Mahometans, about
miles, and so riding at two ankers a head, hauing no other prouision, we
lost one of them, the storme and sea being growen very sore, and thereby
our barke was so full of leaks, that with continuall pumping we had much
adoe to keepe her aboue water, although we threw much of our goods
ouerboord, with losse of our boat, and our selues thereby in great danger
like to haue perished either in the sea or els vpon the lee shore, where we
should haue fallen into the hands of those wicked infidels, who attended
our shipwracke and surely it was very vnlike that we should haue escaped
both the extremities, but onely by the power and mercy of God, for the
storme continued seuen dayes, to wit, vntill the thirtieth day of the same
moneth: [Sidenote: The Island of Shiruansha.] and then the winde comming vp
at the West with faire weather, our anker weyed, and our saile displayed,
lying South, the next day haling to the shore with a West sunne, we were
nie a land called by the inhabitants Shryuansha, and there we came againe
to an anker, hauing the winde contrary, being distant from the said
Chatalet 150 miles, and there we continued untill the third day of August,
[Sidenote: Derbent.] then hauing a faire winde, winding Southsoutheast, and
sailing threescore miles, the next day at a Southeast sunne we arriued at a
city called Derbent in the king of Hircans dominion, where comming to land,
and saluting the captaine there with a present, he made to me and my
company a dinner, and there taking fresh water I departed.

[Sidenote: A mighty wall.] This city of Derbent is an ancient towne hauing
an olde castle therein, being situated vpon an hill called Castow, builded
all of free stone much after our building, the walles very high and thicke,
and was first erected by king Alexander the great, when he warred against
the Persians and Medians, and then hee made a wall of a woonderfull height
and thicknesse, extending from the same city to the Georgians, yea vnto the
principall city thereof named Tewflish, [Marginal note: Or, Tiphlis.] which
wall though it now be rased, or otherwise decayed, yet the foundation
remaineth, and the wall was made to the intent that the inhabitants of that
countrey then newly conquered by the said Alexander should not lightly
flee, nor his enemies easily inuade. [Sidenote: Fortie one degrees] This
city of Derbent being now vnder the power of the Sophy of Persia, bordereth
vpon the sea, adioyning to the foresaid land of Shalfcall, in the latitude
of 41 degrees. [Sidenote: Shabran.] From thence sailing Southeast and
Southsoutheast about 80 miles, the sixt day of August, the yere aforesaid,
we arriued at our landing place called Shabran, where my barke discharged:
the goods layd on shore, and there being in my tent keeping great watch for
feare of rouers, [Sidenote: Alean Murey the gouernour.] whereof there is
great plenty, being field people, the gouernor of the said countrey named
Alean Murey, comming vnto me, entertained me very gently, vnto whom giuing
a present, he appointed for my safegard forty armed men to watch and ward
me, vntill he might haue newes from the king of Shiruan. The 12 day of the
same moneth newes did come from the king, with order that I should repaire
vnto him with all speed: and for expedition, aswell camels to the number of
fiue and forty to cary my goods, as also horses for me and my company were
in readinesse, so that the goods laden, and taking my iourney from thence
the said twelft day, on the 18 of the same moneth I came to a city called
Shamaky, in the said countrey of Hircan, otherwise called Shiruan, and
there the king hath a faire place, where my lodging being appointed, the
goods were discharged: [Sidenote: King Obdolowcan.] the next day being the
19 day, I was sent for to come to the king, named Obdolowcan, who kept his
court at that time in the high mountaines in tents, distant from the said
Shamaki twentie miles, to auoyd the iniury of the heat: and the 20 day I
came before his presence, who gently interteined me, and hauing kissed his
hands, he bad me to dinner, and commanded me to sit downe not farre from
him. [Sidenote: The maiestie and attire of King Obdolowcan.] This king did
sit in a very rich pauillion, wrought with silke and golde, placed very
pleasantly, vpon a hill side, of sixteene fathom long, and sixe fathom
broad, hauing before him a goodly fountaine of faire water; whereof he and
his nobility did drinke, he being a prince of a meane stature, and of a
fierce countenance, richly apparrelled with long garments of silke, and
cloth of gold, imbrodred with pearles and stone: vpon his head was a
tolipane with a sharpe ende standing vpwards halfe a yard long, of rich
cloth of golde, wrapped about with a piece of India silke of twentie yards
long, wrought with golde, and on the left side of his tolipane stood a
plume of fethers, set in a trunke of golde richly inameled, and set with
precious stones: his earerings had pendants of golde a handfull long, with
two great rubies of great value, set in the ends thereof: all the ground
within his pauilion was couered with rich carpets, and vnder himselfe was
spred a square carpet wrought with siluer and golde, and thereupon was layd
two suitable cushions. Thus the king with his nobility sitting in his
pauilion with his legs acrosse, and perceiuing that it was painfull for me
so to sit, his highnesse caused a stoole to be brought in, and did will me
to sit thereupon, after my fashion. Dinner time then approching, diuers
clothes were spred upon the ground, and sundry dishes serued, and set in a
ranke with diuers kindes of meats, to the number of 140 dishes, as I
numbred them, which being taken away with the table clothes, and others
spred, a banket of fruits of sundry kindes, with other banketting meates,
to the number of 150 dishes, were brought in: so that two seruices occupied
290 dishes, and at the end of the sayd dinner and banket, the king said
vnto me, Quoshe quelde, that is to say, Welcome: and called for a cup of
water to be drawen at a fountaine, and tasting thereof, did deliuer me the
rest, demanding how I did like the same, and whether there were so good in
our countrey or not: vnto whom I answered in such sort, that he was
therewith contented: then he proponed vnto me sundry questions, both
touching religion, and also the state of our countreys, and further
questioned whether the Emperor of Almaine, the Emperor of Russia, or the
great Turke, were of most power, with many other things too long here to
rehearse, to whom I answered as I thought most meet. [Sidenote: The Queenes
letters to Sophy.] Then he demanded whether I intended to goe any further,
and the cause of my comming: vnto that I answered that I was sent with
letters from the Queenes most excellent Maiesty of England into the great
Sophy, to intreat friendship and free passage, and for his safeconduct to
be granted vnto English merchants to trade into his Segniories, with the
like also to be granted to his subiects, when they should come into our
countreys, to the honour and wealth of both realmes, and commodity of both
their subiects, with diuers other words, which I omit to rehearse.
[Sidenote: Casbin.] This sayd king much allowing this declaration sayd,
that he would not onely giue me passage, but also men to safeconduct me
vnto the sayd Sophy, lying from the foresayd citie of Shamaki thirty dayes
iourney, vp into the land of Persia, at a castle called Casbin: so
departing from the king at that time, within three dayes after, being the
foure and twentieth day of August the yere aforesayd, he sent for me
againe: vnto whom I repaired in the morning, [Sidenote: Multitude of
concubines.] and the king not being risen out of his bed (for his maner is,
that watching in the night, and then banketting with his women, being an
hundred and forty in number, he sleepeth most in the day) did giue one
commandement that I should ride on hawking with many Gentlemen of his
Court, and that they should shew me so much game and pastime as might be:
which was done, and many cranes killed. We returned from hawking about
three of the clocke at the afternoone: the king then risen, and ready to
dinner, I was inuited thereunto, and approaching nigh to the entring in of
his tent, and being in his sight, two gentlemen incountered me with two
garments of that countrey fashion, side, downe to the ground, the one of
silke, and the other of silke and golde, sent vnto me from the king, and
after that they caused me to put off my vpper garment, being a gowne of
blacke veluet furred with Sables, they put the sayd two garments vpon my
backe, and so conducted me vnto the king, before whom doing reuerence, and
kissing his hand, he commanded me to sit not farre from him, and so I dined
in his presence, he at the time being very mery, and demanding of me many
questions, and amongst other, how I like the maner of their hawking. Dinner
so ended, I required his highnesse safeconduct for to depart towards the
Sophy, who dismissing me with great fauour, and appointing his Ambassadour
(which returned out of Russia) and others, to safeconduct me, he gaue me at
my departure a faire horse with all furniture, and custome free from thence
with all my goods. So I returned to Shamaki againe, where I remained vntill
the sixt of October, to prouide camels, horses, and other necessaries for
my sayd intended iourney.

[Sidenote: The description of Hircania.] But now before I proceed further,
I purpose to write something of this countrey of Hircan, now called
Shiruan, with the townes and commodities of the same. This countrey of
Hircan in times past was of great renowne, hauing many cities, townes, and
castles in it: and the kings thereof in time of antiquity were of great
power, able to make wars with the Sophies of Persia: but now it is not
onely otherwise (for that the cities, townes, and castles be decayed) but
also the king is subiect to the sayd Sophie (although they haue their
proper king) and be at the commandement of the sayd Sophy, who conquered
them not many yeres passed, [Sidenote: Diversity in religion.] for their
diuersity in religion, and caused not onely all the nobility and gentlemen
of that countrey to be put to death, but also ouer and besides, rased the
walles of the cities, townes, and castles of the said realme, to the intent
that there should be no rebellion, [Sidenote: Barbarous cruelty.] and for
their great terror, caused a turret of free stone and flints to be erected
in the sayd city called Shamaki, and in a ranke of flints of the said
turret, did set the heads of the sayd nobility and gentlemen, then
executed. [Sidenote: The citie of Arrash or Erex.] This city is distant
from the sea side, with camels seuen dayes iourney, but now the same being
much decayed, and chiefly inhabited with Armenians, another city called
Arrash, bordering vpon the Georgians, is the chiefest and most opulent in
the trade of merchandise, and thereabouts is nourished the most abundant
growth of raw silke, and thither the Turks, Syrians, and other strangers do
resort and trafficke. [Sidenote: The commodities of this countrey.] There
be also diuers good and necessary commodities to be prouided and had in
this sayd realme: viz. galles rough and smooth, cotton wooll, allome, and
raw silke of the naturall growth of that countrey: besides, nere all kinde
of spices and drugges, and some other commodities, which are brought
thither from out of East India, but in the lesse quantity, for that they be
not assured to haue vent or vtterance of the same: but the chiefest
commodities be there, raw silks of all sorts, whereof there is great
plenty. [Sidenote: The strong castle of Gullistone defaced.] Not farre from
the sayd city of Shamaki, there was an olde castle called Gullistone, now
beaten downe by this Sophy, which was esteemed to be one of the strongest
castles in the world, and was besieged by Alexander the great, long time
before he could win it. And not farre from the sayd castle was a Nunry of
sumptuous building, wherein was buried a kings daughter, named Ameleck
Channa, who slew herselfe with a knife, for that her father would haue
forced her (she professing chastity) to haue married with a king of
Tartarie: vpon which occasion the maidens of that countrey do resort
thither once euery yere to lament her death.

Also in the sayd countrey there is an high hill called Quiquifs, vpon the
toppe whereof (as it is commonly reported) did dwell a great Giant, named
Arneoste, hauing vpon his head two great hornes, and eares, and eyes like a
Horse, and a taile like a Cow. It is further sayd that this monster kept a
passage thereby, vntill there came an holy man, termed Haucoir Hamshe, a
kinseman to one of the Sophies, who mounted the sayd hill, and combating
with the sayd Giant, did binde not onely him in chaines, but also his woman
called Lamisache with his sonne named After: for which victory they of that
countrey haue this holy man in great reputation, and the hill at this day
(as it is bruited) sauoureth so ill, that no person may come nigh vnto it:
but whether it be true or not, I referre it to further knowledge.

[Sidenote: The towne of Yauate.] Now to returne to the discourse of the
proceeding in my voyage, towards the great Sophie. The 6 of October in the
yeere aforesayd, I with my company departed from Shamachi aforesaid, and
hauing iourneyed threescore miles, came to a towne called Yauate, wherein
the king hath a faire house with orchards and gardens well replenished with
fruits of all sorts. By this towne passeth a great riuer called Cor, which
springeth in the mountaines of the Georgians, and passing thorow the
countrey of Hircania aforesayd, falleth into the Caspian or Hircan sea, at
a place betweene two ancient townes called Shabran and Bachu, situate
within the realme of Hircane, and from thence issueth further, passing
thorow a fruitful countrey, inhabited with pasturing people, which dwell in
the Summer season vpon mountaines, and in Winter they remooue into the
valleyes without resorting to townes or any other habitation: and when they
remooue, they doe iourney in carrauans or troops of people and cattell,
carrying all their wiues, children and baggage vpon bullocks. [Sidenote:
The city of Ardouil] Now passing this wilde people ten dayes iourney,
comming into no towne or house, the sixteenth day of October we arriued at
a citie called Ardouill, where we were lodged in an hospitall builded with
faire stone, and erected by this Sophies father named Ismael, onely for the
succour and lodging of strangers and other trauellers, wherein all men haue
victuals and feeding for man and horse, for three dayes and no longer. This
foresayd late prince Ismael lieth buried in a faire Meskit, with a
sumptuous sepulchre in the same, which he caused to be made in his life
time. This towne Ardouill is in the latitude of eight and thirtie degrees,
an ancient citie in the prouince of Aderraugan, wherein the Princes of
Persia are commonly buried: and there Alexander the great did keepe his
Court when he inuaded the Persians. [Sidenote: The citie Tebris or Tauris]
Foure dayes iourney to the Westward is the citie Tebris in olde time called
Tauris, the greatest citie in Persia, but not of such trade of merchandise
as it hath bene, or as others be at this time, by meane of the great
inuasion of the Turke, who hath conquered from the Sophie almost to the
sayd citie of Tauris, which the said Turke once sacked, and thereby caused
the Sophie to forsake the same, and to keepe his court ten dayes iourney
from thence, at the sayd citie of Casbin.

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