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Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2

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CHAPTER V.

SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.--
EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS.


On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On
the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees
began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out,
which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to
France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much
troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of
snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there
was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our
locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly
cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the
wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other
side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was
beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the
river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not
knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the
river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want.
Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children
and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by
an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the
middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken
into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves
with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece
of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited
intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune
was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck
against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them
ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much
delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from
which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard
that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold
themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in
which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I
ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their
impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I
lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their
cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of
carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the
foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but
with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had
sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was
mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it
and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half
cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three
men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they
approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half
warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they
thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all.
These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to
supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the
large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all
our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so
gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep
consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger.
They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had
caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens
[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally
this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and,
being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog,
which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but
which was at once devoured.

This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter;
for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions
so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in
fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very
good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant
Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins,
[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which
they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live
happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along
the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The show
and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it
is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at
the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so
much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three
fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to
Gaspé, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice
continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire
entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is
none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty
leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49° 50'
to 51°, and our settlement [322] in 46° 40'.


ENDNOTES:

310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same
name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by
Laverdière, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms
several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix,
because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which
the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September,
1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Récollects gave
it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles
des Boues.--_Laverdière, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the
north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the
Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that
river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not
passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a
goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about
it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be
seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we
took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne
toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we
staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there
our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier,
Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277.

311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the
river Lairet and the St. Charles.

312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts
or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545,
D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles
long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest
width, is two miles and a quarter.

313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve."
Cartier says, "Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_,"
etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth
being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265.

314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up
the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be
compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier
estimates.

315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief
Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14.

316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six
nautical miles.

317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited
territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by
the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de
aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist
cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine
auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien
en ordre, allerèt veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distàt
dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Récit_,
1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's
translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day
to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day
being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie
Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people,
about a league from our ships."

Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the
St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the
little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at
Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse,
harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in
Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an
Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it
assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River
of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has
come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as
the "Dominion of Canada."

318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain
with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are
to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion
that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear
upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the
Rivière de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116.

319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine
Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178.

320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Musltla vulgaris_.

321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdière, is what Champlain first called
the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron
was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or
Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern
shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here
referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own
observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or
Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of
the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence
in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as
the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great
trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and
east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that
separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name
was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The
Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois
were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of
these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge.

322. Laverdière gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on
the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46° 49' 8".




CHAPTER VI.

THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.--
ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVÉ.


The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the
middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of
the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like
those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some
time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on
account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of
this disease I have described before.

It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of
salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal
parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural
warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also
from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air:
this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other
settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what
was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air
was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country
is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds,
there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our
forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees,
cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both
green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There
are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant
in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering
them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure
and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But
January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses
prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before
given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided
with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we
had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated.
As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate
in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose
condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the
workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not
the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as
Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some
time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to
the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us;
but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that,
with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it.

On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still
very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out.

Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is
the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me,
who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt
meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is
not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease.

On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des
Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Gravé, bringing us the tidings that his
father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This
intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of
assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming
our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing.

On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of
business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return,
which he did.

Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Gravé and I had a conference in regard to
some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages
had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a Shallop with
twenty men, and that Pont Gravé should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the
affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he
spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since
I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de
Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had
made in the country.

After this decision, I, set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to
Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for
making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with
our allies, the Montagnais.


ENDNOTES:

323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180.

324. Read May instead of April.




CHAPTER VII.

DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ÎLE ST. ÉLOI.--MEETING THERE WITH
THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS.


With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river
begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and
a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along
the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks.
The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks
and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The
river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have
here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with
massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our
habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the
river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with
canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said
elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point
is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the
north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered
however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This
passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks
stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding
channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take
the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought
they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have
now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it
would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless
there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide
is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six,
eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep.

Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues
distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named
St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very
pleasant.

Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were
encamped in huts near a little island called St. Éloi, [326] a league and a
half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they
were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their
way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois,
with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their
enemies.

After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their
chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other
Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they
gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom.

I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were
greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to
my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of
pleasure. Then they returned to the shore.

The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time
without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due
reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who
were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and
listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as
follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning,
the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception,
and declared that Pont Gravé and I desired to assist them against their
enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of
many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of
friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had
solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and
make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also
impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their
companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed
in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the
land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our
settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we
should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of
firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at
which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great
cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the
like.

After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad
to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they
might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since
we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as
they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill
what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil
reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did
themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they
never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for
there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with
waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they
could have expected from me.


ENDNOTES:

325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne.

326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts.

327. Hurons and Algonquins.




CHAPTER VIII.

RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF
THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS.


The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they
enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and
festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war.

Pont Gravé came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of
men, in compliance with a letter, in which I I begged him to come as
speedily as possible.

The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told
them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we
should go together.

On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting
these savages. Pont Gravé embarked on one and I on the other, when we all
set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant
fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Gravé and I concluded that, for
certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and
to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all
that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and
nine men.

I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We
passed the Trois Rivières, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth
of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen
leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands,
three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred
paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some
two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to
pass. This place is in latitude 46°, lacking some minutes. The savages of
the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river
there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is
ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four
other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end
of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another
lake, where the Sacqué has its principal source. From this lake, the
savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivières extends forty days'
journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a
people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than
six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have
seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine
and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods
are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our
course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly
pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms
of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north
side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the
interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one
called Rivière du Pont, the other, Rivière de Gennes, [334] which are very
pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the
lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight
elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake.
After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various
sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with
quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to
these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the
river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the
River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with
good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang
up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that
a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their
country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by
barter.

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