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Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2

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70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53.

71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's
Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have
B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto.

72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from
the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from
the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows
into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspé.
Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the
description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines
could be found.

73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape
extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands,
which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The
shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high,
measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380
feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is
an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a
low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and
manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent,
but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present
times.

74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco,
which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to
St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a
striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de
Cardinal_.

75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the
east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth
of Emmerson's Creek.

76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's
Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the
harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other
Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned
by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands.

77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and,
arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river,
which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now
the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick.

78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the
mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at
about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve
feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the
sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river.
Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide
there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be
passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the
sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice
every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb.
The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of
course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable
numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the
favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen
by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as
the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and
vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides.

79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just
above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the
text.

80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a
direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of
the St. John it would be very much greater.

81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45° 16'.

82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies
are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy
Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds.

83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit
Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or
fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south
and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White
Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as
appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled
Menarse, but that in the text prevails.

84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic.

85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On
Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie.

86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the
circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into
the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and
the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting
the appearance of a cross.

"Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui
viennent comme en croix de décharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette
île de la retraite des François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."--_His.
Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462.

It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island
and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it
after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has
been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial
Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light
upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea,
and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately
high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about
five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or
seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have
been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by
the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern
extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about
twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small
cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of
Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant
with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and
a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another
purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our
solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been
presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he
is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in
diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable
doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604,
and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence.

87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix
is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island,
is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the
waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the
river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These
are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered
as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the
text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the
waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on
their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by
land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west,
passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or
Penobscot River.

88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7' 43".




CHAPTER IV.

SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT
SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS
DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF
SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS.


Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a
barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which
served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically
that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the
mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work.
For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their
bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de
Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our
vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly
done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly.

Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked.
Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen
in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the
arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the
place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and
twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had
promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location.
Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each
according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go
to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things
necessary for the buildings.

* * * * *

CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.

HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX.

_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.

_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts.
_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained.
_C_. The storehouse.
_D_. Dwelling of the guard.
_E_. The blacksmith shop.
_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters.
_G_. The well.
_H_. The oven where the bread was made.
_I_. Kitchen.
_L_. Gardens.
_M_. Other gardens.
_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands.
_O_. Palisade.
_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdoré.
_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans.
_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans
lived.
_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray.
_V_. Dwelling of our curate.
_X_. Other gardens.
_Y_. The river surrounding the island.

* * * * *

While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain
Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Gravé at Canseau, in
order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained.

Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons,
in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing
the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Gravé [90]
while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received
them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Gravé, with
orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order
that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on
vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse
and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I
was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging
to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de
Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a
handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble
and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some
gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the
island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well
on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here,
and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains
were taken to water them.

Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of
pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in
view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoüet, who
asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five
or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards
the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good
according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen
per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the
place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage
could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the
search for another time.

Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels
back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his
pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which
he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port
Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had
received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to
arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of
St. Croix the last day of August, 1604.

ENDNOTES:

89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.--
_Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26.

90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Gravé. Lescarbot
says Gravé was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris,
1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont
Gravé in all cases.

91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists.
This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We
may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography
of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In
his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is
Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's
letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego
Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et
attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as
the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris,
1612, p. 612.




CHAPTER V.

OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT
OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER.


After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time,
decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue;
and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable.

In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of
September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and
two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were
acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt
was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence
of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month.
Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at
once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we
made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of
islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four
leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are
covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these
islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement.
The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues
long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little
rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near
the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is
less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that
there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains
extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is
destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of
pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Déserts.[92] The
latitude is 44° 30'.

The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a
smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two
canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I
sent our two Savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear
of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came
alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some
biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had
come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having
made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoüet,
[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named
Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several
pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described
as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude
43°, 43° 30', according to others in 44°, more or less. With regard to the
deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is
related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who
are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most
of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have
heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am
ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are
in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44° at its
entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for
then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve
the minds of many of this doubt.

I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning
as far as I went.

In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten
or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44°, and 18°
40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Déserts
forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low
land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the
two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway
between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and
conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around
there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is
that of the Monts Déserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the
fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of
Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this
river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are
seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the
Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where
there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open
all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by
keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Déserts and
Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it
you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of
Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of
having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and
rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep
the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one
cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or
shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks,
shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to
behold.

Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful
islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to
a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an
eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from
the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous
character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From
this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found,
after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near
which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks
which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail
farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a
fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw
as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough
for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad,
the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had
anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a hunting excursion,
found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they
were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one
side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which
extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance
to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village,
nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the
savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of
the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could
judge, the Savages on this river are few in number, and are called
Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during
some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great
quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could
observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and
now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live
when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of
scarcity, which are sometimes severe.

Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted
along past it as far as the 41° of latitude, we have found no other on the
parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in
the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in
any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country,
since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and
Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than
forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my
geographical map.

Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted
me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their
chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to
inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival.

The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances
given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the
same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages
who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump,
until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on
the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or
an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little
later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and
enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen
Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions
and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in
our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness
to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against
us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with
his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us
with venison and game.

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